Gerry Dunn Wine Reviews :: Wine Reviews, DC Restaurant Review

Palazzo Della Torre - Ripassa - 2007

2011-05-25T15:00:00.001-04:00

Valpolicella - Italy - $18.00
Wine Gent - 91 points

Sometimes it takes years of cellaring to allow wine to develop properly. When it does have time to develop - it is generally a joy to drink. Every once in a while you can find one that is ready to drink right away. Often these ready to drink wine lack the depth and layering of flavor that wine lovers crave. Sometimes you can get lucky and find both....

I have always been a sucker for wines made in the Ripasso style. These wines include Amerone which can be one of the more enjoyable (and more expensive) wines you can find from Italy. Usually made with a blend of grapes from the Veneto region which include Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese - there is an extra step in making this wine that contributes to its depth of flavor.

70% of the grapes are juiced at harvest. They are vinified and stored in the traditional fashion in wine casks. About 30% of the grapes are air dried until December - only then is the fermented juice and lees added to the balance of the juice. This process gives the wine its rich, layered flavor.

This wine is deep ruby red and stains the glass sides. Aromas of expresso, chocolate, leather and dark fruit come in waves. You can sense the richness of the wine just by the nose. The wine has good density in the mouth - almost chewy like a good Cabernet. The black fruit, chocolate and coffee notes lead to a long layered finish. Although this wine is in no way soft - the tannins are in balance. There is plenty of muscle to pair beautifully with a rich rib roast or steak. You can let it breathe if you like - but it is beautiful right out of the bottle.

This wine is fabulous and a fantastic value. List price on this gem is $18. It is difficult to believe you can get this much bang for the buck. Don't miss it -and be sure to ask for the 2007. You may see this start going on sale - as vendors are making room for newer vintages. Buy a case at a time and enjoy!

Domaine Charbonniere - Perdrix - Chateauneuf du Pape - 1998

2009-11-13T09:36:00.002-05:00

France / Chateauneuf du Pape
$35 / Rhone

Ahh, the joys of having a cellar. With the economy ailing, and me being in an industry that has been severely affected, I am happy to have a cellar to drink during the downturn. I have been drinking 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape on and off for almost 10 years. It was a great vintage, and most of the wines have held up very well.

I was curious how this Domaine held up. A reasonably priced wine, it cost about $25 when I purchased this in 2001. It was a bit tight when I tasted it back then, and has had time to mellow over the years. The tannins have softened, and the wine has morphed into a wonderful treat.

The cork held up beautifully on this wine when I opened it. It poured ruby red, and did not look like a 10+ year wine. The scents from the glass were balsam, black fruit, cherry and a bit of earth. The wine was layered and long. There was still a bit of glycerin which was surprising after all these years. There were still sufficient tannins - though softer then in early life - that leads me to believe this one has 5-7 years left to drink.

Overall, this was a wonderful bottle of wine.

This producer always has a consistently good bottle from year to year. In the great years, this bottle is one that you should stock up on. With 2007 being compared to 1998 as a vintage, I may have to pick up some for the cellar.

What are some of your favorite CDP producers? Not the obvious - like Beaucastle and Pegau - but some of your favorite values in the region? Let me know....

Hewitson - "Ned and Henry" - Barossa Valley - Australia - 2006

2009-11-06T06:47:00.007-05:00

Shiraz / Mourvedre
Barossa / $22 - $30

Although Australian wines are often labeled by the critical press as "Over the Top", they are still some of the finest values to be found for frugal wine lovers. Consistently delivering a lot of wine for the money, there are some gems to be found that should be on the top of every wine lovers list.

Hewitson is one of my favorite producers in the Barossa Valley. With 8-10 different wines released each year, they are consistently good year to year. Hewitson is one of my "Go-To" producers when I am looking for a wine to impress.

Ned and Henry is a lovely shiraz with a touch of mourvedre blended in for balance. Named after the estates two sons, this wine is big, rich and fruit forward. Those that like Aussie reds will love the balance and richness of this red.

It pours purple and the color is saturated. The nose is gobs of black fruit, red fruit some vanilla and licorice. The wine tastes of black fruit, plum, cola and finished with a hint of nut and earth. This is a medium bodied wine with a decadent feel.

How much can you expect to pay for this decadence? I found this wine on-line for $21.00. If you buy it retail, you can expect to pay up to $30. Even at $30, this is a lot of wine for the money. Most importantly, it is a bottle of wine that will not disappoint. I could easily see folks that taste this wine blind assume it is a $50 bottle of wine.

This wine is imported by John Larchet who owns "The Australian Premium Wine Collection". Any time you see this neck label, I can promise you it is attached to a wonderful wine. I had the chance to taste the entire collection last year with Josh Raynolds of IWC. There was not a bad wine in the bunch.

Maybe the best part of this review today is not specifically this review, but the recommendation to look out for this neck label when searching store shelves for a wine. It may be cheating, but I promise you that you won't go wrong.

Has anyone tasted any other wines in this collection? Do you agree with my analysis? Report back. You can comment following this post.

Marques de Caceres - Rioja - 1987

2009-10-30T11:22:00.002-04:00

Tempranillo / 1987
Rioja / Spain

Every once in a while a bottle of wine falls through the cracks. The more wine you have, the easier it is to lose one in the mix of racking and case boxes. Annually I go through my wines to try to find these sneaky bottles and get them back to where they belong.

Sometimes I am highly disappointed when I find a nice bottle of wine and realize it has been lost too long, and is probably too old to enjoy. This is a bigger problem with white wines that generally have a much shorter shelf life.

Two years ago I came upon a bottle of Spanish Rioja from Marques de Caceres while organizing my racks. It was a "Riserva" bottling from 1987. I remember purchasing this while in Spain with my wife in 1992. These wines are generally released late, after cellaring at the estate from 3-5 years.

I probably spent $20 on this bottle in 1994. At that time, this was the upper range of what I was willing to spend on a wine, and an indulgence. I thought it would be a nice bottle to open a few years later to remember the great time we had in Spain.

Well, the wine was put on racks when we got back to Annapolis waiting for the appropriate occasion. In 2000, my family an I moved to Potomac, Maryland - and all of the wines got packed in mixed boxes for the move. Once we got into the new home, the boxes (About 50 boxes) sat against the basement wall.

As they say - Best laid plans......the boxes stayed against the basement wall until I build my wine cellar 3 years ago. At that time all of the wines were racked, catalogued, and organized to a degree so I could find the wines I was looking for. This poor Rioja popped out of a box - already 17 years old.

I put this wine and about 20 other bottles on a rack outside of the wine cellar to make vinegar. (Like I have time to make vinegar). There they have sat for 3 years - lonely, dusty and neglected.

Last week I invited some good friends over for wine, food and fun. While trekking down to the cellar for some more wine, my friend Fernando saw the neglected bottle of Rioja on the Vinegar shelf. When I told him the story, he wisely said "Why don't we open it?". Worst case would be it was bad, and we could dump it out. What a fabulous idea!

With much fanfare we opened the bottle. After carefully removing the cork (Which was in remarkable condition), a quick sniff led me to believe we may have gotten lucky. I poured the wine - a little darker then a normal Rioja - but this was older then a normal Rioja. I smelled dark fruit and a touch of prune on the nose. The wine tasted great. The fruit was still there - blackberry, currant and red bramble fruit mixed with leather and a bit of sherry. The wine was certainly beyond its prime. It was very thin and not near as supple as a peak Rioja should be. For 20 years old, it was a winner.

So what is the lesson in all of this? First of all, never assume a wine is bad. It is always worth giving it a try. My friend Fernanado and I now have a good story to share regarding a great night with friends, and a fabulous Rioja that was long left for dead. Depending upon how a wine is stored, you can sometimes get longer life then expected from a wine. If you have a strong vintage, the tannins in a wine may preserve it for much longer then you expect. Once in a while, there is no explanation. Even after sitting for 3 years on the Vinegar shelf, this humble Rioja had its 15 minutes of fame.

Review - Juan Gil - Monastrell - 2006

2009-10-23T10:45:00.004-04:00

Spain / Jumilla
90pts / $18.00

When you love wine, you can't help surrounding yourself with others with the same passion. I meet quarterly with friends in Virginia to taste wine, eat good cheese and most importantly catch up on each others lives.

Two weeks ago Barbara hosted our quarterly event. The theme was blue cheese and our favorite wine since out last meet.

We had a fantastic time, as usual, but Barbara sent me home with a bottle of wine she was very impressed with. She and I have similar tastes, so I could not wait to try it out.

This wine poured a beautiful dark purple and coated the glass. It had smoky earth, blueberry and violets on the nose. It smelled delicious. The wine was medium bodied, typical of a Jumilla monastrell. The flavor notes were black cherry, tobacco, with dusty tannins. It had good structure and was multi layered. The wine is delicious.

All of the major reviewers gave this wine 90+ points. It has enough structure to last a few years in the cellar, but may be too tempting now. What a great gift, and impressive wine.

The most impressive feature of this wine is the price. I have found it as low as $16.99 online. You can find it locally in DC from $18-$22. Don't miss this budget beauty. Back up the truck and buy it by the case!

Casal Garcia - Vinho Verde - 2008

2009-10-06T08:21:00.005-04:00

Portugal / 2008
$6 - $9 / 88 points

About once a month I am asked to assist with choosing wines for a wedding. Usually I am asked to suggest "Good, but Inexpensive" wines for the bar and tables. Vinho Verde is always one of my top suggestions for white.

You can't beat Vinho Verde for easy drinking. Literally translated as "Green Wine," this Portuguese beauty, for me, is a white wine staple. Light, refreshing and inexpensive; this wine will change your perception of cheap white wine. It is a low alcohol classic that never ceases to surprise me.

This wine is wonderfully crisp and refreshing. It is light bodied with plenty of acid. It is easy to pair with most snacks and grilled food. Reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc, it has a nose of lemon and lime, fresh grass and a touch of earth. The wine is slightly effervescent. This is the trademark of a vinho verde. It tickles your tongue.

It is a simple wine. Light colored with little body, this wine is easy to quaff. The citrus is refreshing on the front end. There are also some tropical fruit and mineral notes on the finish, with not a lot in the middle. This wine should be served cold.

This wine is generally made from loureiro, trajadura and albarino grapes which are indigenous in Portugal. If the map looks like a persons face in profile, the wine is produced by the eyes and forehead.(See Map) The blend varies from producer to producer, but always includes these varietals. This wine is called Vinho Verde, because the wine is meant to be enjoyed while young. It is important that you check the label to be sure you are buying the latest available. Currently, you want the 2008 vintage.

The vintage on this wine is not found on the front label. You have to turn the bottle around and look for an important looking seal. Within the seal, it will tell you the vintage of the wine. The last time I reviewed a vinho verde, I got lots of e-mails from readers telling me how disappointed they were in the review. When we investigated further, we found they were drinking wine that was 2-3 years old. Believe me, you will love this wine. If you don't, I will give you odds that the bottle you have opened is old.

Have I told you the best news? Brace yourselves. This wine is less then $8 per bottle. You can find it as little as $5.99 if you look hard enough. At this price, you should be buying it by the case.

Vinho Verde is the Rodney Dangerfield of summer wine. Because of it's low price, it "Gets no respect." Don't wait as long as I did to try it. You will be glad you did!

MATCHBOX Pizza Review - Bad Judgement

2009-07-19T16:01:00.007-04:00

I recently went to Matchbox in Washington, DC to celebrate a successful theatre performance by my daughter. The experience was less then pleasant.

The story is almost incredulous. This is a tale of a waitress using very poor judgement to damage a long term relationship.

I have been transformed from a FAN of MATCHBOX to a unhappy customer.

Matchbox
713 H Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001

July 19, 2009

To: Ty Neal, Perry Smith
Andrew Kim, Chris Schaller
Fred Herrmann

Dear Sirs;

I have been a fan of Matchbox since you opened your DC location in 2002. I dine at your Chinatown location frequently and recently have added the new Capitol Hill site to my dining list.

My daughter was participating in the DC Fringe festival this past Saturday. After the play, we walked from the theatre to your Chinatown Location to celebrate a successful show. I brought seven people with me and planned on enjoying an early dinner in your upstairs dining room.

We were seated promptly and greeted by our waitress without delay. We were all in good spirits – hungry and looking forward to sharing a meal and celebrating a fabulous afternoon.

When I ordered a draft beer, our waitress requested my ID. How sweet I thought. I am rarely carded (I am 49), and was happy to pass my license over for review. After perusing my Maryland license, the waitress asked if there is anything other then beer I would like, as my license was expired and thereby invalid as identification.

I looked at my license, and she was correct – my license had expired in May. I was unaware and quite surprised it had expired. As a reasonably responsible, middle age man with kids, I am not one to push the limits of the law.

What DID surprise me was her refusal to serve me a beer. She went to great lengths to explain that she could be arrested for serving someone without proper ID. She went on to explain in a condescending manner why she was right to take this position. I was stunned.

What my entire group first thought was a joke had become an incident. She would NOT serve me a beer, but would allow one of my adult guests to order one on my behalf. I was incredibly embarrassed and frustrated with the lack of judgment she used to interact with our group.

What started as a fantastic afternoon with my children and friends had turned into a disappointing, frustrating and infuriating experience. We stayed at our table, but immediately her tip went from 20% to 15%. If it were not for my wife…she would have received ZERO from me.

I am a food and wine person that spends a great deal of time at restaurants. Your establishment has been one of my favorites for many years. It is a shame that one incident can change the perception of a customer from a fan, to a detractor.

As a salesperson I feel I owe it to the owners and management to bring this incident to light. I have always felt that good judgment is one of the most important skills a waitperson can have. While Nicole was very competent as a waitress, she was a failure as an ambassador of your brand.

I have attached a copy of my license, my itemized bill and for good measure my AARP card to validate my tale. I hope you can use this example to better train your staff and avoid future incidents. Pizza Paradiso, Two Amy’s and Comet will be happy with my $163 tab once a month.

Sincerely,

Gerry Dunn

Chave - Cotes-du-Rhone - Mon Coeur - 2006

2009-03-04T13:58:00.008-05:00

Rhone Region / France
Proprietary Blend / $18-$25

I just arrived back from Naples, Florida where I spent 4 exhausting days with some old friends. Every year I meet with these guys to play golf and get a few days away from the family. There may be golf during the day, but it is all about food and wine at night.

The down side of spending time in an expensive market, is the food and drink is expensive too. To hold down costs, we tried to stay with wines offered at $70.00 and below. This is always a challenge since that puts the retail price at $20.00 to $25.00 at which point quality is spotty.

Most of the wine we had over this trip was forgettable. Why is it so hard for high end restaurants to research wines for the lower third of their list? There are some great values out there and we only found one worth mention.

Chave is best known for their higher end wines from Hermitage and St Joseph. Many folks are not aware that they produce an entry level wine as well. Although they carefully buy the grapes used from throughout the Rhone region (Rasteau and Cairanne), the result is delicious.

This wine is a blend of Syrah, Granache and a little bit of Carignane. The nose is fabulous with strawberry and red fruit. It is a bit darker then a Pinot Noir with good clarity. The first taste brings cherry and blackberry on the front and a slightly spicy raspberry finish. The tannins are pure and sweet...this one is easy to drink.

This wine was paired with a Roquefort Strip Steak and held up to it well. It is not a wimpy wine. The wine had good body, almost chewy...and can be paired with bold flavors and fatty food.

I need to thank Rick Gilbert and the boys from Buffalo for picking up the tab that evening. Kudos to Larry Hager the KaKooYa man for letting the shanty Irish invade Quail West; Chris for admitting he had new hair plugs, and Barry the door breaker. Tim Gavigan with Fleming's Steakhouse treated us like gold. I hope I have the chance to reciprocate in Washington, DC. Thanks to all, you made my week!

By the way....Notice the Alligator in the lower right hand corner of this photo. Rick and Chris were about to throw me into the water for playing so poorly.

Photo Credit to Larry's I-Phone.

From Left to Right - WineGent, Chris Gavigan and Rick Gilbert

Muga Rioja - 2004 - Unfiltered

2008-12-12T17:00:00.003-05:00

Rioja / Spain
$22.00 to $26.00

After a long deserved hiatus I have come back to my reviews. What a nice wine to entice me back. With the economy in disarray, we are all looking for a nice bottle of wine that won't break the bank. Look no further. This is your salvation.

This wine is a blend of Tempranillo, Grenache, Mazuelo and Graciano grapes. Each year the percentage of each grape in this blend changes. In 2004 it was about 70% Tempranillo, 20% Grenache and the balance a mix of Mazuelo and Graciano.

This wine is consistently good from year to year. The winemaker has the latitude to change his blending percentage based upon harvest conditions and balance. For the past 5 years they have been perfect.

This wine pours a dark ruby color. The nose is a mix of grilled bread, blackberry, cedar...almost reminiscent of a good California Cabernet. The wine is dense and chewy. Blackberry, mineral, chocolate and a bit of pencil lead lead to a long...surprisingly long.....finish.

This wine has plenty of structure. The tannins are noticeable, but in balance. This one can last for 5-6 years in the cellar. I think this could use 30 to 45 minutes in a decanter to show at its best. This would be a winner with cheese or meats rich in fat. The pairing would enhance the tasting experience for both.

I found this wine on-line for about $22 a bottle. I have had a good experience with Wine Library in New Jersey; http://www.winelibrary.com . They have reasonable shipping, and usually very competitive pricing. Don't hesitate to order from them. Wine Exchange in California is also a great vendor http://www.winex.com. They currently have half bottles at $12.99.

If you can find this wine at this price it is a steal. Load up, and save some for a rainy day.

Masi Costasera Amarone 2004

2008-10-03T22:46:00.000-04:00

Valpolicella / Italy
$44 to $60 / 92 pts

I have always loved Amarone. As a full fledged carnivore, there is no better wine to complement a juicy steak or leg of lamb. When the dollar was strong, I could buy a good Amarone for around $30 and often did. Well, the dollar is now in the gutter, and the great names in Amarone are approaching $100 or more a bottle. Amarone is now a rare treat.

I found the Masi on-line for just under $50. The wine got 95 points by a prominent wine publication and 90 points from Wine Advocate. With that level of positive feedback I felt it was worth spending the money to try it. I picked up a thick steak, fed the kids early and opened the bottle an hour before eating. Grill got lit, steaks got cooked and wine got poured. (Are you hungry yet?)

The Masi poured a very dark ruby color. The nose was dark fruit, cherry, raisin and prune. The wine was medium bodied with baked cherry, cacao, spice and nice balance. The finish was long and smooth with the tannins lingering on the finish. This was especially nice with the fatty rib eye. It offset the tannins and made this wine a pleasure to drink.

Overall, this is a delicious wine. It is big, rich, balanced and is best paired with food. When you are spending $50 on a bottle of wine, take the time to investigate what foods will complement your selection. The time you invest in educating yourself with exponentially improve you entire wine and food experience.

I drank this wine as part of a virtual tasting on-line. MustLoveWine.com is a social net working site for wine lovers. Picture "FaceBook" for winos. We select a premium wine each month, taste it, and report our findings. It is a great way to interact with other wine lovers and learn an awful lot about wine.

Check out the site MustLoveWine.com. It is free to join, and a great tool to augment your wine education. When you go to the site, take some time to explore. There is something there for everyone, from neophyte to wine professionsl. If you become a member, tell them WineGent sent you!

Tenute Del Cabreo Il Borgo 2001

2008-09-30T08:00:00.004-04:00

Super Tuscan / Italy
Cabernet - Sangiovese Blend

Those of you that follow my column know I am a sucker for a good blend. In the United States we have a history of blending classic varietals, from jug wine to $200 Meritage blends. The French have Bordeaux and the Aussies have their classic GSM and Shiraz/Viognier blend. In all cases the combination of individual varietals often creates something greater then each component alone.

In Italy, this classic combination is generically called "Super Tuscan". A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this Italian gem has found a permanent place in my cellar. Each grape is allowed to show off its individual strengths in this wine. The Sangiovese brings red fruit and aromatics and the Cabernet brings structure and richness to the blend. Each grape unselfishly shows off the strengths of the other. Isn't that the way any good partnership succeeds?

Tenute del Cabreo in a partnerhip of Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari. This father and son team was formerly active in the family firm of Ruffino. The family has been making notable wine since the 1700's, and Tunute del Cabreo is a venture launched in 2000. The focus of the Cabreo estate is Super Tuscan, but they have a portfolio of other Italian classics that have been well reviewed.

Everything about this wine is well done. Even the bottle is premium. It is heavy and feels expensive. You assume before even opening the wine that you are in for a treat. The wine is fragrant, with lots of red fruit, red and black current, oak spice and surprisingly a bit of bacon fat. The flavor of black cherry, raspberry, black pepper and even some coffee are layered nicely in this wine. Big and full bodied, the wine is rich and elegant. Although the oak is obvious it is well integrated and actually adds to the profile. The finish is long and satisfying. This will stand up nicely to a big roast or rich fatty steak. You can drink this now, but be sure to decant it a few hours for best showing. It has the structure to age 10 years or more in the cellar. I look forward to seeing how this beauty evolves.

This wine was around $50 when released. Although it is certainly worth the money, I seldom review wines in this price range and label it "value" wine. Value though, does not have to have a low price tag. It simply means you get more then you pay in satisfaction. This wine definitely qualifies. There are many $100 California Cabernet's and proprietary blends that would get a run for the money from this Italian classic.

What if I told you that you could find this wine at $24.99? At that price, it is a screaming value. It is currently available in Pennsylvania at many of their Premium wine stores. As with all great values, there is limited supply. If you live in Pennsylvania, or within driving distance to any of their state stores, you can order on line and pick up at any of their locations convenient to you. Although they will not ship out of state, make the drive. This wine is a steal and will knock your sock off. Better yet, buy a case and drink it over the next 10 years.

http://www.lcb.state.pa.us/webApp/Product_Management/Chairman_Selections.asp

La Vieille Cure 2005

2008-09-26T12:24:00.005-04:00

Bordeaux / Fronsac
$30 to $45 / 93 points Parker

It is not often that I will review a French Bordeaux. I usually stick to what I know, which are Californian, Australian and Spanish wines. There was so much press about the esteemed 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, I had to explore some of the smaller (Read as more affordable) Chateaus to see what all the fuss was about.

Robert Parker, wine critic and guru, wrote a great article on some of the smaller producers in Bordeaux. He called them the "Petite Chateau's", and discussed what wonderful values some of these wines represented. The point of his article is that the 2005 vintage was so strong, that the quality of all Bordeaux, even the smaller producers, was outstanding.

I culled through his report, and chose 4-5 of the higher rated wines, with a price tag under $30. La Vieille Cure was the top ranked wine on the list that still fit my budget. Parker Loved this one. Initially tasted in the barrel before release, he gave it 89 points out of 100. When re-tasted, he was thrilled with the way that this had matured. He re scored this a 93 out of 100.

This "upgrade" in score presents an interesting opportunity. Many wines are priced by the producers based upon these preliminary scores. Logically, the higher the score, the more the producer can expect to sell their wine in the marketplace. When a wine is scored below 90 points, there is a lot LESS interest in the wine from the general public. The wine is priced very reasonably to the importers and wholesalers, and the wine can then be sold at a much better price to the public.

When a wine is re-tasted and the scores rise, more often then not the prices have already been set. These wines can sometimes fall through the cracks and represent a fabulous bargain to the wine loving public. This particular wine is a great example of this scenario. It is a fabulous wine, reasonably priced, that continues to fly under the radar of serious collectors.

This wine poured out a beautiful deep inky red and coated the glass. It had aromas of sweet black fruit, black cherry, currants, and a bit of a sweet floral. It has wonderful mouth feel. Dense, Rich, concentrated, this wine tastes like a much more expensive bottle. The black fruit is superbly balanced and follows through to a long finish. It is a textbook example of what a fine Bordeaux should taste like.

This is so incredibly delicious now, that you may not have the patience to let this wine age. I still think it is evolving in the bottle and will probably continue to for another year or so. It has the structure and balance to age gracefully for 10 to 15 years. This wine presents a rare opportunity for those of us that cannot stomach paying $125 and more for a good Bordeaux. You can find this on-line, and it is worthwhile buying what you can find.

Don't wait.

The Sazarac Cocktail - A Taste of New Orleans

2008-09-21T09:48:00.009-04:00

1 1/2 oz Old Overholt Rye Whisky
1 Tbs Herbsaint Liqueur
3-4 Dashs Peychaud's Bitters
1 Tsp Simple Syrup
1 Lemon peel (Generous twist)

Fill a generous rocks glass with ice to chill the glass. Dump the ice after the glass is well chilled. Add the Tablespoon of Herbsaint to the glass and swirl completely around the glass to coat the bottom and sides. Pour out the excess Herbsainte. In a cocktail shaker, add 1 teaspoon of simple syrup, 1 jigger of Old Overholt rye whiskey, and 3 generous dashes of Peychaud's bitters. you can substitute Angostura bitters as if it is all you can find, but Peychaud bitters is traditional.

Stir the Rye mixture with the ice until well chilled. Do not shake with the ice as it will dilute your cocktail. Strain into the Herbsaint-coated cocktail glass. Twist a lemon peel over the drink to release the essential oil in the peel. Drop the peel in the glass and serve.

This is an outstanding cocktail. You should approach it reverently. Take the time to appreciate the beautiful perfume that this blend of ingredients exudes. It smells delicious. Anise, spice and a complex floral component from the Herbsaint create an aroma that is heavenly.

At first sip you will feel the warm burn of the rye, but then layers and layers of flavor. There is the sweet flavor of honey and spice, a taste of the bitters balanced perfectly by the sweetness of the simple syrup. The lemon twist is the icing on the cake adding both a flavor and aroma component. It is amazing how much the Herbsaint adds to this cocktail. Although the glass is only coated with this elixir, the personality of this cocktail can be attributed to its presence.

It is important that this cocktail be served without ice. The personality of the drink changes as the cocktail warms. Savor it, sip it, but drink it slowly. You will be rewarded for your patience.

Every bartender I spoke with in New Orleans insisted that a "real" Sazarac will be made with Old Overholt Rye. Old Overholt is cheap, readily available and a staple at most New Orleans restaurants and bars. Herbsaint is also easy to find in New Orleans, but a bit more difficult in other parts of the country. I assure you it is worth the time to find some, or have some shipped for you home bar. I have included links at the bottom of this review if you would like to order all of the ingredients by mail. If you are in a pinch, you can substitute Pernod for the Herbsaint and cognac for the rye.

The best Sazarac I had in New Orleans was prepared at Herbsaint Restaurant on St Charles Avenue. There will be those that will disagree, but that it the beauty of reviewing. It provides a forum for discussion. Do you have a favorite bar or restaurant to enjoy this New Orleans staple? Share it with me in the comments. I am already starting a list of places to visit for my next trip to the Crescent City.

Here are some essential links relating to my experience:

"Herbsainte Restaurant".
"Old Overholt Rye Whisky".
"Peychaud's Bitters".
"Herbsainte Liqueur".

The BEST of New Orleans

2008-09-16T08:53:00.007-04:00

1. Lucy's -Retired Surfer Bar
2. August - John Besh
3. Wine Institute of New Orleans
4. Luke - John Besh
5. Bon Ton Cafe
6. ACME Oyster
7. Roberts Fresh Markets
8. Herbsaint - Restaurant and Bar
9. Cafe du Monde
10. Cigar Factory - New Orleans
11. St. Charles Avenue Streetcar
12. Frenchman's Street Jazz Bars
13. Sazarac Cocktail
14. Aiden Gill for Men - Barbershop

Did I mention the people of New Orleans? I was so impressed with everyone I met there. The wealthy, the working class and the poor...the spirit of New Orleans was instilled in all of them. After being battered by Katrina in 2005 all of New Orleans has come together. The residents diligently work to preserve the culture and tradition that has been so richly celebrated in New Orleans for many generations.

I made it a point to speak to many of the residents during my 3 days there. ALL of them were incredibly generous with their time, and truly went out of their way to give me hints of where to go and what to see.

I am kicking myself for never making it to New Orleans before now. I packed two weeks of eating, drinking and touring into a 3 day trip. I will have to go back two or three more times to visit all of the places that remain on my list to experience. The running joke while in New Orleans was the question of which would give out first, my liver or my waistline. Look for all of the gory details in my future reviews coming later in the month. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Pierre Boniface Apremont "Vin de Savoie"

2008-09-05T16:08:00.008-04:00

Jacquère Grape / 2007
Savoy, France / $14 "Great Value"

It is difficult to believe that Summer is over. My kids started school again last week and it is impossible to believe how quickly time flies. I am going to miss the warm summer nights when the cool autumn nights take their place. There is nothing better then sitting on the back porch with Diana Krall on the stereo and a chilled bottle of white at the ready.

Usually my favorite wine to sip on these nights is a lighter white wine. Typically I will lean towards a Vinho Verde from Portugal. I was asked to taste this wine for review and was really impressed. So much so, I went out an bought a case for what is left of my annual porch time.

This wine is from Savoie (Pronounced Savoy) which is in the eastern part of France. It is made by Pierre Boniface using the Jacquere grape which is common in the Savoie region. This region is at higher elevation and the wines have an interesting Alpine character. This wine also has an effervescent quality, similar to a vinho verde.

The wine is light in color with a nose of flowers, mineral, melon and bit of spice. The wine has wonderful body. It is smooth and denser then you may expect for a white. There are clean flavors of melon and pear and at the end a tidbit of grapefruit peel on the long finish. .

This wine is a terrific value. It is easy drinking and surprisingly inexpensive for what the wine delivers. It has a different profile then your everyday Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay, and is worth your time to taste. Since I tasted this wine I have introduced it to many of my wine geek friends with great results. Be the first in your group to introduce this delicious and inexpensive varietal.

This wine is widely available. Check with your local wine shop to see if they can get it. There is also a premium version of this wine which has a metallic gold label. The premium bottle is called "Prestige". This wine has a bit more depth, and is certainly worthwhile. Try them both and let me know what you think!

Fireblock "Old Vines" Shiraz 2005

2008-08-13T14:45:00.003-04:00

Clare Valley / Australia
Shiraz (Syrah) / $20.00

Some readers have e-mailed me asking why I have been on such an Australian wine kick lately. The answer is simple...I like Australian wine. Not only do I like the Australian style, but it is one of the few countries remaining with wines that I still consider a value.

I tasted over 120 wines with John Larchet, owner of "The Australian Premium Wine Collection" last month during a two day tasting. I got to spend the entire weekend with John and was thrilled to be able to taste his wines.

John emphasised his love for wines that are highly aromatic. He told me he felt that when a wine smells great, there is a high probability that it will taste great too. All of the wines he imports have one thing in common. They are balanced. There is not excessive acidity, tannin, alcohol or oak. He likes to say his wines are smooth and easy drinking, with "no arms or legs" sticking out to ruin the experience. I found his wines extraordinary. All of them seemed to suit my palate.

When tasting so many wines over a short period of time, you develop a shorthand while making notes. None of the shorthand is standardized. It becomes a private language that would make sense only to the taster. When reviewing my notes for the Fireblock "Old Vines" Shiraz, the first thing I read was in all capital letters.
"HOME RUN". In my shorthand, it is the highest complement I can pay a wine.

"HOME RUN" designates a wine that is easy to drink, has great structure, is flavorful and is considered a good value based upon price. The Fireblock "Old Vines" touched all bases.

The wine pours a dark purple. Immediately you can smell the aroma of black and red fruit, violet, smoke and spice. The wine is lush in the mouth with just enough weight to saturate the palate. The black fruit is ripe, a bit spicy with balanced tannins and long finish. This wine has French Rhone characteristics. The wine is beautifully balanced, elegant and easy drinking...

Fireblock is produced in the Clare Valley in South Australia. Bill and Noel Ireland are former wine retailers from Sydney and are the owners of the Fireblock Label. They are also partners in another wine venture in the Margaret River area called Flinders Bay. Their passion for wine is reflected in the product they produce.

The parcel of land that is now the Fireblock vineyard runs along an old rail line. Initially the land was uncultivated and used to prevent fire along the rail lines. The old steam trains used to spew soot and cinder that could set wildfires along the tracks if ground was planted. Happily, the demise of steam locomotives now allows for much more efficient, and tasty, use of the land.

This wine is still undiscovered in the United States. Although widely available through wholesalers, it is not stocked in many local wine stores. Make an effort to request this one. It is a wonderful wine, from a wonderful winemaker. Once the retailer knows there is interest in this wine they will start stocking it on a regular basis. Do yourself a favor....ask them to order you some. You won't be disappointed

Francois Chidaine "Les Argiles" 2005

2008-08-04T15:26:00.009-04:00

French / Loire Valley
Chenin Blanc / $21 - $27

Chenin Blanc is originally from the Loire Valley in France. Over the years, its reputation has been sullied, especially in the United States, because of its use in many low quality generic box wines.

This grape is represented worldwide. In the United States it grows very well in California. Chile, Mexico, Brazil and Argentina also has a suitable climate for growing success. In South Africa where it is called "Steen", it thrives. It is often used in all of these countries to bottle as a varietal, and quite often blended to boost the acidity of Chardonnay. When Chenin Blanc is made well, it is a beautiful wine. From bone dry, to sweet dessert wine, this grape has incredible versatility.

Francois Chidaine has been growing grapes and making wine most of his life. He worked side by side with his father Yves and learned bu "hands on" experience. Learning from his father, Francois still manages the vineyard using tried and true methods. "Les Argiles" refers to the water retentive clay in the vineyard where these grapes are grown. Although the vineyards are certified organic, he does not make a big deal of this fact. The old fashioned methods of viticulture still ring true for him, and in his opinion make the best wine.

This 2005 vintage is luscious. It is straw colored and fragrant. Tropical pineapple, lilac, quince and grapefruit attack the nose. It is full of fruit, but beautifully balanced with acidity. It has good concentration of fruit, and has a wonderfully long finish.. This wine is almost dry. Chenin Blanc is one of the few white varietals that can be cellared. This wine should age extremely well.

This wine surprised me. I did not expect I would like it this much. I thought I had been exposed to some decent Chenin Blanc in my travels, but this one has been the nicest to date. I was able to buy this wine for $22. This is a lot of wine for the money and I guarantee that the quality belies the price.

This is imported by Louis Dressner out of New York. It may be a bit tough to find, but it is worth the effort. It is sold in the DC area at MacArthur's Beverage in Northwest, DC. You can also find it on-line.

If you have not had a chance lately to try this varietal, do so. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with what you find.

Great Wines, Great Vintages, Great Prices

2008-07-30T13:41:00.005-04:00

The US economy has been tough for the past few years, and the US dollar has lost a lot of ground against the Euro and other currencies. This translates to higher costs for most commodities, including wine.

Some of my favorite wines are from the Rhone region of France. Chateneauf du Pape, Cornas, Gigondas are just some of the styles I love. While shopping for these wines late last year, my salesperson told me to look through the catalog for some of the older vintages that they still had in stock. I was amazed at how much cheaper I could buy some of these older vintages versus the new releases.

Instead of purchasing the new vintage of Chateauneuf du Pape, I opted to stock up on the better producers for the years 1998 through 2003. The retailer bought these wines years ago at a price significantly lower then the new vintage. Many retailers have held the pricing on these wines to encourage sales and to deplete their inventory. This offers an opportunity for wine lovers to grab a real bargain.

Why wouldn’t you consider buying past vintages of quality winemakers? The wine has had some time to develop in the bottle possibly improving in character. Most often the tannins soften providing a better drinking experience. Most importantly, you can save a few dollars allowing you to buy better wine for the same price.

In every city you can find a retailer that has past vintages stored in a temperature controlled warehouse. Many have on-line catalogs that allow you to peruse what wines and vintages are available. In Washington, DC, I buy from McArthur Beverage http://www.bassins.com/, Calvert Woodley – http://www.wineaccess.com/ and Schneiders – http://www.cellar.com/ . All of these stores have past vintages that are available to purchase.

If you are not in the DC area, check the larger stores in your specific area to see if they have a web presence. You can also inquire with the stores directly regarding availability of past vintages.

Good luck, and let me know what bargains you find! I will share them in a future article.

Hewitson's "Miss Harry" GSM 2006

2008-07-29T15:24:00.017-04:00

Barossa Valley / Australia
Shiraz-Granache-Mouvedre / $25

I am still reeling from the fabulous tasting I attended a few weekends ago on Gibson Island, outside of Baltimore. John Larchet, the owner of "The Australian Premium Wine Collection" led me through all of his wines over two eight hour days. I have to thank John, as it was one of the best wine experiences I have ever had.

One of the brands he represents in the United States is Hewitson. Based in the Barossa Valley of Australia, they produce 11 different wines. I tasted six of them, and loved them all. Dean Hewitson and his wife Lou founded Hewitson in 1998. In a short time they have made a name for themselves and their wines in the Barossa Valley.

"Miss Harry" is named in honor of their daughter Harriet. A classic blend of Granache, Shiraz and Mouvedre (GSM for short), this wine is an easy drinking gem. It pours a medium red/ruby color. There are flowers, berry and anise on the nose. This wine is very fragrant and medium bodied. When tasted, the black fruit, black cherry and plum are first to be noticed. The flavours transition to red fruit like strawberry and raspberry on the medium length finish. The tannins are soft and pure and well balanced. This is a beautifully crafted wine.

This is a versatile wine to drink on its own, or with food. For the money, it is a stunner. I went on-line and found the 2005 vintage of this wine for less then $20 a bottle. I immediately bought a case. Don't miss out on this one. I am rarely as confident of a wine as I am of this one. I defy you NOT to like it. You can check out the Hewitson website on line at www.hewitson.com.au.

Check out the 2005 vintage of "Miss Harry" currently on sale for $17.98 a bottle at Wine Library in New Jersey. Shipping is approximately $25 per case. This puts your per bottle cost at around $20. Don't miss out. With the dollar in free fall, the 2006 vintage will be at least 20% more.

Chateau Montelena SOLD (Going once, going twice...)

2008-07-23T13:40:00.006-04:00

Chateau Montelena was sold today to the French Estate Chateau Cos d'Estornel. The price of this deal is unclear, but according to the Wine Spectator, Montelena fielded offers between $120 and $150 million for this Napa winery and vineyards.

Some of my colleagues reacted with disgust as I shared the news with them. For the US to be selling out to the French...it was so....unpatriotic!

I disagree. This is not the first major winegrower to sell out to a European wine house. Last year Stags Leap Winery was sold for $185 million and Duckhorn for $250 million or more. This is the start of a trend.

Montelena and Stags Leap wines emerged well ahead of all other US winemakers in 1976. There was a competitive wine tasting in Paris, now referred to as "the Judgement of Paris" where French judges named Chateau Montelena's 1973 Chardonnay as superior to all of the hallowed French Burgundy producers. Everyone was shocked, the French unpleasantly so and the Americans ecstatic. This put American wines on the map.

This is such a compelling story that Hollywood took notice. In January, during the Sundance Film Festival, "Bottle Shock" was premiered telling the Montelena story. There have been some notions that "Bottle Shock" will increase Montana's profile in the same way that the movie "Sideways" did for Pinot Noir. Although not yet released in theatres, you can bet that Cos d'Estornel will be more then willing to fund its distribution.

The more important economic issue here has nothing to do with our domestic wine gems being sold. It has to do with America's addiction to borrowing. We have long been the worst savers in the world. Our economic growth and innovation has allowed us to stay on top for a very long time. The global economy though, is starting to catch up.

The dollar, long the benchmark currency in the world, is being supplanted by the Euro. The dollar and all assets valued in dollars are down right cheap. Lets just say that America is "On Sale". Just last week we saw Anheuser -Busch, parent company of the iconic American "Budweiser" brand, sold to the Belgian brewer Ambev. These deals are only the first of many American brands that will be sold.

We have to change our culture in the United States from spend to save. Our complaints regarding the price of oil, gold and other commodities are falling on deaf ears outside of the US. The dollar is no longer the currency of choice.

For my part, I am going to continue to find wines that provide superior value and quality. The wines are out there and the winemakers are looking to be discovered. I am going to pass on the big name wines for which we pay for reputation more then substance. I would encourage all of you to do the same.

Congratulations to Jim and Bo Barrett, owners of Chateau Montelena and America's newest multi-millionaires!

Pikes Estate Riesling 2007

2008-07-18T14:42:00.009-04:00

$20 - $28 / Dry Riesling
Clare Valley / Australia

I love Red Wine. In the summer though, it can be a bit too hot for a structured, heavy red. When cutting my teeth on wine in the early 1980's, I was introduced to German Rieslings. I LOVED them.

With varieties ranging from slightly sweet and refreshing to almost candy like, the German Rieslings were a great introduction to wine. Easy to drink, affordable, and always readily available. I learned a lot about German Riesling during this period of my life. As my tastes became more sophisticated, I transitioned to red wines, and sadly, never looked back.

Two wonderful friends and wine experts introduced me to this wine and re-introduced me to Riesling. Although not German, this Riesling radically changed my perception of this noble grape.

Pikes Estate is located in the Clare Valley of Australia. Although mostly known for its Shiraz, it is also famous for its "bone-dry" (Read - Not Sweet) Rieslings. I was flabbergasted when I tasted this wine. Instead of slightly sweet, it was remarkably refreshing and completely different then I expected. I would have never guessed in a blind tasting that this was a Riesling. Wow, this was a very exciting wine!

It poured a medium straw color, almost looks like a savignon blanc. The nose of Lime zest, grapefruit and mineral was fantastic. It is intensely flavored, very dry and refreshing. The limey flavors are prevalent up front, evolving to citrus and stone fruit and mineral. It has a long, dry finish. It is VERY refreshing yet intense.

This wine is beautiful. From the packaging to the price. Although many of you will balk at paying $28 retail for this wine, you need to look at the money spent as tuition. It will allow you to learn what dry Australian Riesling is all about, and dispel all previous stereotypes about this Noble grape.

It is imported by John Larchet, Proprietor of "The Australian Premium Collection" http://www.tapwc.com.au/ . You will hear more about John in future posts. The collection of wines he imports is fantastic. If you can't remember the name, remember this label affixed to all the wines he imports into the states. I tasted the entire collection and did not find any I was not impressed with.

This is a quality wine, and a steal for the price paid. Another little known fact....this wine will evolve and age in the bottle for up to 10 years. Why wait? This wine is delicious and refreshing now. Today it is 95 degrees with painful humidity....I can't wait to crack open an iced bottle when I get home this evening.

You can find this wine on-line and at most quality retailers. You can find this wine in the DC area at Total Wines and More in Virginia, Schneider's of Capitol Hill in DC and some of the better retailers in Maryland.

Casal Garcia Vinho Verde Branco 2007

2008-06-13T09:04:00.012-04:00

Portugal / 2007
$5 - $8 / 88 points
I love the Spring and Early Summer. Days are longer, kids are out of school and most of us dust off the grill for 4 months of outdoor living. It is also the time of the year to transition to lighter wines. White, Rose and lighter bodied reds replace the heavy red wine we prefer in winter.

My favorite wine for hot weather is Vinho Verde. Literally translated as "Green Wine," this Portuguese beauty, for me, is a summer staple. Light, refreshing and inexpensive; this wine will change your perception of cheap white wine. It is easy drinking with low alcohol. This is a perfect warm weather wine.

This wine is wonderfully crisp and refreshing. It is light bodied with plenty of acid. It is easy to pair with most summer and grilled food. Reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc, it has a nose of lemon and lime, fresh grass and a touch of earth. The wine is slightly effervescent. This is the trademark of a vinho verde. It tickles your tongue.

It is a simple wine. Light colored with little body, this wine is easy to quaff. The citrus is refreshing on the front end. There are also some tropical fruit and mineral notes on the finish, with not a lot in the middle. This wine should be served cold.

This wine is generally made from loureiro, trajadura and albarino grapes which are indigenous in Portugal. If the map looks like a persons face in profile, the wine is produced by the eyes and forehead.(See Map) The blend varies from producer to producer, but always includes these varietals. This wine is called Vinho Verde, because the wine is meant to be enjoyed while young. It is important that you check the label to be sure you are buying the latest available. Currently, you want the 2007 wine.

The vintage on this wine is not found on the front label. You have to turn the bottle around and look for an important looking seal. Within the seal, it will tell you the vintage of the wine. The last time I reviewed a vinho verde, I got lots of e-mails from readers telling me how disappointed they were in the review. When we investigated further, we found they were drinking wine that was 2-3 years old. Believe me, you will love this wine. If you don't, I will give you odds that the bottle you have opened is old.

Have I told you the best news? Brace yourselves. This wine is less then $8 per bottle. You can find it as little as $5.99 if you look hard enough. At this price, you should be buying it by the case.

Vinho Verde is the Rodney Dangerfield of summer wine. Because of it's low price, it "Gets no respect." Don't wait as long as I did to try it. You will be glad you did!

Writer's Block Petite Syrah 2005

2008-06-06T14:18:00.010-04:00

Winemakers in general are creative personalities. Although there is certainly science involved in fermenting the wine, the blending is all by taste. The most successful wines are not necessarily the best wines. Why you ask? The simple answer is that it takes more then the creative winemaker to ensure success of a label. It takes passion and business savvy. Behind every successful winemaker is a savvy business type.

Periodically, you find a winemaker that has been blessed with both of these necessary talents. Jed Steele is one of these winemakers.

Jed started his career at Ed Meades Vineyards in Mendocino County. He cut his teeth there, and moved when he was offered a position at Kendall Jackson. At that time Kendall Jackson was a newcomer. Jed was the Founding winemaker and VP of production for many years. When it was time, he went on his own to form Steele Wines. Located in Lake County, his operation has grown over the years and now bottles under at least three labels.

A friend recommended Writers Block Zinfandel to me this past fall. I was very impressed with the wine and wrote a positive review. The review made its way back to Jed Steele, who quickly called me to thank me.

RING!...... RING!...... Hello?...... Who is this?...... Jed who?......Oh, hello!...... Wow...someone is calling to THANK me for drinking their wine? (ALL OTHER WINEMAKERS TAKE NOTE!)

After the initial shock, I chatted with Jed for about 15 minutes. He told me about his wines, his philosophy and his passion. What I found so intriguing was his business sense. Like a good salesman, Jed picked up the phone to say thanks. Like a good consumer, I LOVED getting the call. Like a good salesman he told me how good his other wines were. Like a good consumer I told him I'd love to try them. Like a good salesman he sent me a box of his wines. Like a good consumer... You are starting to get the picture right?

I am generally a fan of Petite Sirah. For those who don't know, this is not Syrah, nor is it Pinot Noir. Petite Sirah is a completely different varietal. Sometimes called Durif, this grape was developed in France by crossing Syrah with the Peloursin grape in the late 1800's. The resulting hybrid was resistant to Powdery Mildew, a real problem for the Syrah varietal. It has adapted very well to the dry California climate and is now almost non-existent in France.

Steele blends his Petite Sirah with a bit of Zinfandel, Syrah and Merlot. It pours dark red, but not as dark and inky as many Petite Sirah I have tasted. It is lighter in color and viscosity. This lighter character may come from the higher elevation these particular Petite Syrah grapes are grown.

The nose was blueberry, black fruit, earth and a bit of violet (Unexpected). The wine has good mouth feel, but is not as fleshy or chewy as many Petite Sirah I have tasted. It has blue and black fruit up front with spice and pepper. There is a good bite from tannins that mellow as the wine opens. Overall, it is a good, balanced, easy drinking wine.

You can find Writers Block Petite Syrah at most good wine stores for under $20. I think we have to support winemakers that are thinking outside the box, and Jed Steele is one of these winemakers. Give it a try, and let me know what you think. Post a comment. I have it on good authority that Jed checks in to read my reviews from time to time!

Hmmm....What should I buy?

2008-05-26T09:36:00.010-04:00

It seems without fail, once people realize I am a wine nut, they ask me what they should buy. While I enjoy helping people find good wine at a reasonable cost, it is almost impossible to predict what someone may like. This column is for all of you that ask for assistance in what to try and what to buy. If you can give me answers to the following three questions, I can make a solid recommendation on the wine or wines you should be trying.

What do you like? This seems like a simple question, but surprisingly, wine newbies have no clue to the answer. It is important to know what wines and varietals you like. When you come across a wine you find tasty, you need to write down or remember three things. What varietal, what winery/vineyard and what year are all found on the label. If I am supplied this information, I can usually make some recommendations that will probably suit your taste and budget. Without this information, I have no point of reference that would enable me to make a valid recommendation. As with most subjects, knowledge is power.

Learning about wine is a process. Your tastes will change over time as you learn more about wine, and more about your particular palate. New wine drinkers are usually attracted to fruit forward wines. California and Australian wines will be in abundance on your favorites list. Slowly but surely, you will start to appreciate some of the more complex nuances of a good wine. Depth, layers of flavor, length of finish are all key components of a good wine. You may eventually replace fruit forward wines with more complex, balanced wines. You also may not! To this day I occasionally crave a good Californian or Australian "Fruit Bomb".

Start a wine journal. It does not have to be complicated. List the wines you have tried with comments on how you liked the wine. It does not have to be in "wine speak". Whatever words you choose should be able to bring you back to the experience and give you a quick summary of how much you liked, or did not like, the wine. You will be amazed how helpful this will be for you in the future. Over time, you may even see your tastes start to change as you become more educated about what you like.

If you are drinking wine with someone that is more knowledgeable then you are, ask questions. To this day I still ask my wine friends what they smell on the nose, what they taste in the glass and what their impressions are of the wine overall. I am still learning to identify different aromas and flavours in the glass. The more experience a person has with wine, the more specific they can be in describing the wine using words. As you become more experienced with wine, you can use these verbal descriptors to determine if a wine may suit your taste.

Share your favorites with others. They will share their experiences with you. I cannot tell you how many great wines I have found through friends and reader recommendations. Wine is made to drink with friends. Old friends, new friends and wine friends. Did I leave anyone out? Enjoy!

Vina Cobos Malbec "El Felino" 2006

2008-05-21T16:06:00.010-04:00

Malbec / 2006
$15-$20 / 91 Points

Periodically I go to a local wine store searching for the Holy Grail. You know, wine that tastes great and most importantly, does not exhaust your budget. I was in a DC wine store a few weeks back and picked up a half case of wines I never tried. I got a few Malbecs, a few Spanish blends, some primitivo and a few Petite Chateau Bordeaux. I tried the Malbec last night, and was blown away.

The best part of reviewing a wine is finding out more about a wine you love. Like the layers of flavour a good wine will offer, it often also offers a good story. It always seems to be a person of great passion that is making the wine. Many times the story has a twist.

I started researching Vina Cobos this week and was amazed to see the name of a winemaker that is high on my favorite list. Paul Hobbs has been making fabulous wine from the North Coast of California for many years. All of his wines are highly rated, and many of his wines already have a home in my cellar. Why his association with this winery is not more clearly advertised is a mystery. This would have been an immediate purchase for me if I know Paul was involved. Live and learn.

Paul went down to Argentina in 1988 to assist Nicholas Catena in making Chardonnay. He consulted for 10 years, and left his position to open his own winery. Vina Cobos produced its first wine in 1998. Since then Paul has not looked back. He built a winery on site in 2005. This wine has been getting some rave reviews by some top reviewers ever since.

The nose on this wine is incredibly rich. It took me a minute to actually sort out what I was detecting in the nose. Black Cherry, Dark Berry, and spice really saturates your senses. The dark purple wine is full bodied and rich. Great mouth feel is important to me, and this wine delivers. Big, chewy with black berry fruit and plum notes. The finish extends a long way with a touch of oak. Hobbs ages this in a mix of French and American oak. 21% of the barrels are new, which causes the oak nuance on the finish.

The wine is smooth, but not without good balanced tannins that will allow this one to lay down for a bit. I am very curious to taste this a few years down the line. I think it will actually improve for a few years in bottle. The tannins will integrate and the wine will become softer. There is enough fruit in this beauty to really shine once the tannins settle.

This wine was released at $17.00. For this price, it is a tremendous value. If you have not tried Malbec from Argentina, this is the wine to cut your teeth on. The $17investment won't break the bank, and you might find this to be a new favorite. With Paul Hobbs at the helm, this wine will sail right into your favorites list.

I found this wine in DC at Calvert Woodley for $19. On line buyers can go to www.napacab.com and buy this beauty for $14.95. With Paul Hobbs wines from California selling upwards of $75, this is a great deal.

Chateau Saint Jean "Belle Terre" Chardonnay

2008-05-16T14:50:00.007-04:00

Chardonnay / Sonoma
2005 / 92 points

Chateau Saint Jean has been represented in my cellar for many years. Their Proprietary "Cinq Cepage", is a wonderful Bordeaux blend that consistently gets great scores from most reviewers. I never had the opportunity to try their Chardonnay until I opened a bottle with a friend last week. What a wonderful surprise.

When reviewing Chardonnay in the $20-$25 range, I often have my expectations set on the low side. Much of the chardonnay in this price range is mundane. The grapes used for Chardonnay at this price point are not of the highest quality. Why should they be? The top grapes can be sold or used for wines that are two or three times the money. For $25, I would rather find a bottle of Savignon Blanc or Viognier of excellent quality then suffer through a mediocre chardonnay.

The 2005 Belle Terre Chardonnay delivered a lot of quality for the price. As a reviewer, I should not make assumptions before tasting. This wine reinforced the fact and taught me a valuable lesson.

The wine is light honey colored, with a tinge of green. It is medium to full bodied for a white. The wine clung tenaciously to the glass when swirled. Honeysuckle, Peach, Nectarine and Lemon were prevalent in the nose. Peaches and nectarine are abundant up front, with a nice hint of oak towards the finish. Not overdone, the little bit of oak will please even those who like an "unoaked" chardonnay. The wine is rich and full in the mouth with fabulous length. The finish goes on and on.....fabulous!

This wine was released last year at $25, and can still be found on the winery website at this price. www.chateaustjean.com For those of you that are comfortable with internet purchase, it can be found at the Wine Exchange, www.winex.com for $17.99 per bottle. This quality chardonnay is a steal at this price. Back up the truck, and buy a few cases. You can thank me later....get your credit card and buy a case before it is gone.

Camellia Cellars - Lencioni Vineyard Zinfandel

2008-05-10T13:01:00.009-04:00

2004 / Dry Creek Valley
$24.99 / 90 points

I went to a fabulous LaTour Burgundy tasting last month sponsored by Calvert Woodley Wines, a local wine shop in D.C. They usually sponsor at least 2 wine dinners a month, and for my money, offer the best in Washington. Usually they keep the cost at $99 or less, which includes dinner, wines and all gratuities. In the Washington market, this is a great deal. As part of the entry price to the LaTour tasting, I received a $40 gift card to Calvery Woodley. This was the only excuse I needed to drive into D.C. and look for some new wine.

My favorite question to ask of the staff of any wine store is "What is your current favorite wine to drink TODAY?" Debera Edwards did not hesitate when I asked her. She brought me over to the Zinfandel, and pulled a bottle of Camellia Cellars off the shelf. "If you like Zins, this bottle is great." I immediately put it in my basket.

Camillia Cellars is located in Healdsburg, California. Owned and operated by Father/Daughter team Ray and Chris Lewand and partner/winemaker Bruce Snyder, this team has been producing wine since 1985. In the early days the wine was made in the basement of the family owned Camillia Inn. The winery became a commercial operation and was bonded in 1997. Currently they produce Zinfandel, Cabernet, Sangiovese and a Proprietors Blend.

The zinfandel is dark ruby in color. Quite fragrant, the sweet nose of black cherry, black brier fruit foreshadow your first taste. Medium bodied, cherry, mulberry are prevalent with a bit of black fruit and spice near the end. The wine is fruit forward with soft tannins and a long finish. This is a lot of flavor for the $25 price tag. This is a wine to drink now. It paired beautifully with goat cheese and bread, and the rest of the bottle complemented my Rib-eye steak with class. The bottle was gone WAY too soon.

Pick up a bottle at Calvert Woodley on Connecticut Ave. in DC. It is also sold by mail order from the vineyard . If you go into Calvert Woodley, be sure to tell them that WineGent sent you!

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards - Maryland

2008-05-02T14:20:00.011-04:00

Sometimes in life, the most pleasant of days cannot be planned. They just happen. Such was the case this Wednesday when I took the afternoon off to visit some old friends in Barnesville, MD.

Victor and Linda Pepe live on 150+ acres in the shadow of Maryland's Sugarloaf Mountain. Their farm is called "Stella's Dream" in memory of Victor's Mom. It is a beautiful property. Rolling fields, ponds, streams and at least 100 bluebird houses are scattered across the acreage. It is a wonderful place to decompress, and I tend to invite myself to see them at least every other month.

We sat in the kitchen catching up on each others lives. I have a 25 year history with these friends. The best part of the day is when we re-tell stories from the past. Over the years the same stories re-told get better and better. Of course, lunch was accompanied by a few bottles of wine. Victor asked me if I had ever tasted the local wine produced by Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards. I told him that I had not. Honestly, I have never even heard of the vineyard. That is all Victor had to hear. We were off on a field trip.

The vineyard is only a few miles from Victor's farm. We arrived to the tented tasting room about 2:30, and were welcomed by the staff. The vineyard is a work in progress. While the wine processing, storage and bottling areas are functional, the tasting room is currently housed in a large tent attached to the winery. A cozy tasting bar and tables fill the comfortable space where you instantly feel at home.

A huge red barn is being renovated adjacent to the tasting tent. This will eventually house a formal tasting room and be the central focus of the winery. Plans for the space include a larger tasting room and space for entertainment. This is a perfect spot to hear music while drinking wine in the shadow of Sugarloaf Mountain.
You feel excited when you see what they have done here. It will be difficult for even the most uncreative soul not to see the potential of this space.

Josh Parker manages the tasting room at Sugarloaf. A young man just shy of 30, Josh has an obvious passion for what he does. With a good understanding of wines, and a contagious passion for the Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, he is a wealth of knowledge. We spent quite a bit of time conversing about the wines and future plans of the owners. He also has a deft hand when blending his delicious sangria recipe. Be sure to try a glass if it is available!

I spent the afternoon with my old friends and new friends drinking wine and noshing on some fabulous local goat cheese sold in the tasting room. ALL of the wines here are worth tasting. There is a Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet and a few Bordeaux blends. It was interesting to see they produced both a Left Bank and a Right Bank blend. Both were good, and for about $20, they rival some of the best local wines I've tasted.

The vineyard is open Wednesday through Sunday for tasting. There is a nominal fee for tasting, but grossly inexpensive considering the good wine and great company. I find it hard to believe that anyone would leave here without a smile on their face. More importantly, a long thought as to when they can return. I can guarantee it will be a destination for me at least a few times this summer.

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard has a great website with information on the wines, the winery history and directions. Be sure to let them know that WineGent sent you!

Vergelegen "Sauvignon Blanc Reserve" 2006

2008-04-25T11:40:00.006-04:00

Sauvignon Blanc / South Africa
$19-$24 / 92 points

OK, those of you who have been loyal readers of my reviews already know I am not a big fan of Sauvignon Blanc. For me, choosing Sauvignon Blanc is boring. Picture going into a wonderful bakery with a shelf full of artisanal bread, and instead of buying a beautiful Rye or Pumpernickel you buy white "Wonder Bread". I know, many of you that are fans of Sauvignon Blanc have just gasped. It is one of the more popular white wines in the world. Well, not for me.

I was invited to taste two different styles of Sauvignon Blanc with some wine friends. We were going to compare two South African Sauvignon Blancs with distinctly different styles. We tasted side by side and I expected my notes to reflect the same adjectives that always are placed in my Sauvignon Blanc reviews. Crisp, Tart, Citrus....you know the words. After a while, the wines and reviews for Sauvignon Blanc all blend together.

Well, yesterday one of the wines surprised me. Although it still had the same adjectives for nose and flavours, there was one adjective that I cannot ever remember using as a descriptor. INTENSE!

Vergelegen is located in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. About 45 minutes from Capetown, this area is a perfect micro climate for Sauvignon Blanc. Wines from this region have been making astounding progress in increasing market share in the United States. Quality is the main reason, and reasonable prices put them over the top.

Vergelegen, which means "Location Far Away", is an idyllic setting. Gardens and restored mansions fill the property. Vineyards were engineered long ago to utilize gravity for water distribution. This illustrates the pains and planning that went into making this property successful. The wine reflects this dedication to quality.

This wine poured a light straw color and immediately the aromas were leaping from the glass. Grapefruit, Grass, White Flowers and some Green Pepper/Herb were all evident. The flavors were Grapefruit Rind, Flint, Guava, Fig and Mineral. The Grapefruit component was intense. This is NOT a typical Sauvignon Blanc. This is a Sauvignon Blanc with a flavour profile on steroids.

All of you are not going to like this wine. Many of you are going to send me e-mails telling me I am out of my mind. What I have found over the last few years is that many of you DO have a similar palate to mine. If this is the case, it is worth finding this wine and giving it a try. I am very curious to see what you have to say.

Four Vines Zinfandel - Dusi 2005

2008-04-21T10:34:00.015-04:00

Zinfandel / California
$28-$33 / 90 points

I have been hearing great things lately about Amador County wines. I have had no less then seven e-mails this week chastising me for not investigating this up and coming area 45 miles southeast of Sacramento. Being a Zin lover, I did not need much additional prompting.

Four Vines Vineyard has been getting lots of critical acclaim. Founder Christian Tietje is a self proclaimed hedonist and former chef from Boston. With two partners he has greatly increased the capacity of this growing winery, without sacrificing any quality. With fifteen different wines, he and his partners are kept busy. After tasting his Dusi Zinfandel, I think they will only get busier.

The wine pours a medium ruby typical of a California Zin. Aromas of Red Fruit with a bit of mint and menthol. The wine is medium bodied with generous red brier fruit, cherry, spice with a bit of anise and menthol on the finish. The tannins are well integrated making this wine easy to drink. This wine has good structure and will cellar for two or three years without any issues. Good finish, not too long, but pleasant. This would be a great wine with hearty fare like stew, pasta or braised beef.

There were less then 500 cases of this wine produced. You should call around to your favorite wine store to see if they carry it. In the DC area, it is carried by Pearson's at 2436 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, D.C. It is on sale for $23 per bottle. At this price, back up the truck! Call ahead to check availability. At this price, it will go fast.

Pearson's / 202-333-6666

"Testal" Italian Blend

2008-04-20T10:39:00.008-04:00

Rosso de Veronese / Verona Red
$18 to $23 / 2004

I have been very lucky in life when it comes to friendships. I have been blessed with many friends, some better then others, but all wonderful. With wine, there is an important parallel. There are some wines that year in and year out provide great satisfaction and bring a smile to my face.

Last night I went out to see a movie ("The Visitor"), and afterwards went for a late dinner at a new Italian restaurant in DC. While waiting for our table, I perused the wine list to see what was available. It was a short, carefully chosen list, with many of the usual suspects.

When you walk into a crowded room instinctively you scan the room for a familiar face. When you find a friend, you tend to smile and walk towards them to say hello. It is a similar experience when reviewing an unfamiliar wine list. You scan the list and cannot help but find the wines you know. This was the case for me last night. Testal for me is a perennial favorite. It only took a moment for me to decide to catch up with an old friend.

Corvina is the indigenous grape in the Verona region of Italy. Amarone and Ripassa are made with this grape. If you enjoy Amarone, you know that a good bottle can set you back $50 to $100 each. Although one of my favorite Italian wines, the price of Amarone can be prohibitive. Finding a substitute at a more reasonable price has been a continual quest.

I was introduced to Testal 4 years ago. It was a top pick on one of the "Best Value" lists that I review every year. It was described as a "Poor Man's Amarone", which immediately caught my attention. Once I tried a bottle, it has been a perennial favorite. The 2004 vintage is no exception.

This wine is produced using grapes that have been partially dried. The top vines are cut then hung at harvest. The dried grapes are then picked, pressed and placed into large oak casks to age. This drying process concentrates the juice and contributes to the rich character of this wine.

The Corvina is blended with 3% Cabernet and 3% Merlot in the final blend. This has been a consistent formula for this wine from year to year. The Corvina gives the wine great structure and the addition of the Cabernet and Merlot lend a balance to the blend.

The wine pours dark ruby. It has a rich nose of cherry and sweet brier fruit with a bit of vanilla and spice. The red fruit is prominent and the finish is long. Tannins are in balance, but not overabundant. While others in my group thought this wine could age for a bit, I found the tannins in balance with the fruit. This one may lay down for a short while, but why wait? It has been consistently good wine from year to year. Drink it now, and have faith that next year vintage won't disappoint.

I would recommend that you have this wine with food. It is bold, and would be well suited to meats and pasta. Although it was recommended that the wine be opened an hour before serving, I don't feel it is necessary. It may be tough to find this wine at your local supermarket, but is widely distributed and worth the time to find.

Let me know what you think. I suspect that once you try this wine you will like its personality. For me, that is the number one requirement for a new, or old friend.

Nicolis wines

La Vieille Ferme Rose 2006

2008-04-18T16:11:00.013-04:00

Cotes du Ventoux / France
Rose / 88 Points

Spring has sprung in the Metro D.C. area! All of us that have been cooped up all winter are dying to break out the charcoal and enjoy a nice dinner outside. This Rose, although inexpensive, provides a big bang for the buck. Most importantly, it is made in enormous quantity, which makes it widely available.

This review is for the Rose'. I only mention this because La Vieille Ferme (The Old Farm), also makes a very nice budget red. This wine is not a connoisseur's wine by any stretch of the imagination. It is an everyday table wine. This is a blend of 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Very nice, both flavor and price.

Light pink in color, it oozes the scent of strawberry and bitter cherry. Although it smells sweet, it is a nicely balanced blend with good acidity and crisp flavors. The flavour of the wine reflects the nose. Light bodied, it delivers strawberry and cherry, with a pleasant finish.

This wine is custom made for grilling everything from pork chops to sausage. It goes down easy, and will be enjoyed by all who partake. Don’t be put off by the screw top. Many of the budget wines are going in this direction to save cost. It is a perfect picnic wine; no need for a corkscrew.

Value is a highly overused and misunderstood term as it relates to wine. A value wine is one that gives you more then you may expect for what you have to pay. This wine, using that definition, is a winner.

La Vieille Ferme Vineyards

Worthy "Sophia's Cuvee"

2008-04-13T13:29:00.026-04:00

Bordeaux Blend / 2005
Napa / $25-$35
91 points

I have been a fan of Worthy since the first release in 2001. It is a "second label" of the super premium "Axios" brand owned by Maryland wine wholesaler Gus Kalaris. A family man, Gus named this wine after his daughter Sophia. It may be his second label, but it certainly does not play "second fiddle." This is a delicious Cabernet Blend.

Bob Egelhoff is the winemaker for "Axios" and "Worthy". In his 20 plus years of experience, he has been involved with production of many stellar wines. Harlen, Pahlmeyer, Beckstoffer and Merryvale to name a few. He has been working as a consultant to many fine wine producers, and continues to produce quality wine for all on his client list.

This wine debuted in 2001 to stellar reviews. It has been off the radar for the past few years, but has maintained consistently high quality. This wine has a large contingent of loyal fans that see "Worthy" as a wonderful value. I will agree. For the price, ($25 to $35) this wine is a fabulous find.

The wine pours deep purple. When swirled the wine clings to the sides of the glass. Aromas of Black Fruit, Blueberry, Cassis, and Earth expand as you continue to swirl. The wine has a lush mouth feel. Black and Blue fruit, Cherry, Currant and a bit of Cassis are nicely balanced. This is a great bottle to have with a big steak. There is an abundance of oak and firm tannins which mellow a bit after the wine opens. It is best to decant the 2005 or open it an hour or so before serving.

This wine is beautifully balanced. Although the fruit is prominent in this wine, it does not overwhelm. Those looking for a "fruit bomb" will be disappointed. This is a serious wine that should evolve in the bottle for at least two years and lay down for six or more. That is rare for an American wine in this price range.

Those with a budget of $25 for a nice everyday cab should consider making this your new favorite. Those who see $25 as a special treat, will be well rewarded. This wine is widely available, and can be found by the case in the $25 range. Give it a taste, and be sure to let me know your thoughts.

My Favorite Butcher (I confess)

2008-04-12T16:15:00.009-04:00

I have a passion for cooking. I tend to lean toward meat and potatoes, true to my Irish roots. My favorite meal, by far, is a well marbled rib-eye steak done to medium rare on the grill.

My frugality lies in direct opposition to my taste. Of course, to find some of the best rib-eye steak, you can pay up to $18 a pound. To eat steak, except on a special occasion, is cost prohibitive....or is it?

Now for the confession part of this article, and I hope, some useful information. Steak that looks and tastes like steak from a premium butcher does not have to cost a fortune. For that matter, it does not have to come from a premium butcher. That's right, it really doesn't. What is the secret? Read on.

When is the last time you went into your local market and spoke directly with the butcher? Never? That does not surprise me. With supermarkets getting larger and larger, and our society getting more and more tolerant of prepackaged food, few of us even realize there is a butcher there. Not only are they there...they are LONELY!

Years ago, while perusing the meat aisle for some good looking rib-eyes, I was looking pretty dejected. Although the steaks were on sale at a GREAT price, there was not much for me to choose from. All of the steaks in the case were cut 1/2" thick, and looked more like minute steaks, then the big juicy rib-eyes that I envisioned. There was a meat man in the aisle restocking the ground beef who noticed my indecision and asked if he could help.

I explained my frustration, told him what I needed, and he said, "No, problem...let me see what I have in the cooler". He came back with a full rib and asked how I liked my steak. He too was a steak lover, and cut me the most beautiful steaks I have ever seen. He wrapped the package and handed it to me, and I thanked him profusely for his assistance. He said....(Listen closely as this is the key to your future steak success)..."Thank you sir! Anytime I can assist, my name is Rich. Ring the bell and I am happy to cut you whatever you need!"

When I got over the giddiness of finding what I wanted, I took inventory of what just occurred. Rich had just rocked my world with some awesome steaks. Being a sales type...I wrote a letter to the Big Chain Store gushing about Rich and my experience and thanking them for the service. Guess what happened two weeks later when I was looking for a nice steak?

I rang the bell, the window behind the meat case opened and my new best friend Rich beamed. Before I could say hello, Rich started thanking me for the great letter I sent to his Employer. Although it was sent to the president of the company, 2 states away, the letter worked its way down the chain of command until it got back to my local supermarket. Rich was given a plaque for customer service that month and was given a small raise as a reward for his customer service.

From that time onward, Rich was my personal butcher. He always went out of his way to get me the best available beef, and never disappointed me when he made recommendations. I never forgot to look him in the eye and thank him when he handed me my package. I knew that every time I thanked him I ensured the next time I came in I was top on his list.

I have moved 3 times since I met Rich. In each city I moved to, I always made my way back to the butcher window and rang the bell. I always gave a genuine thank you to the butcher that helped me, and if they were good, I always wrote a letter to their boss. Needless to say, for years now I have been the recipient of some of the best beef my local store has to offer.

The advantage of being known to your friends and acquaintances as a food and wine lover is they make assumptions. Most believe I do not drink cheap wine, and only will eat the best steak. The truth is, I will only drink GOOD wine, regardless of price. As for the steaks? My personal butcher ensures I eat only the best....

My new personal butcher is Mike at "Bloom" supermarket in Rockville, Maryland. Mike has gone above and beyond to make my experience with him fantastic. Thank you Mike. A letter is on the way to corporate letting them know how lucky they are to have you in their employ. I look forward to working with a man that knows his craft and is proud of what he cuts. Although you are a bit further then my local store, you are worth the twenty extra miles.

So there you have it. An old fashioned way to buy at newfangled markets. Ring the bell!

Tait "Ball Buster" (Really!)

2008-04-10T15:30:00.010-04:00

Shiraz / Barossa Valley
91 pts. / $14-$21

This is the second time I have reviewed Tait's "Ball Buster". I raved about it last year when the 2005 was released, and I was looking forward to see if the wine quality would remain consistent. It has.

I actually purchased this wine last year to give as a gag gift to a fellow wine geek. He had a tendency to give me a hard time about some of my reviews, so the "Ball Buster" moniker was appropriate. It was Australian, reasonably priced and certainly good for a few laughs. Well, the joke was on me. The wine was, and is, a fabulous value.

The 2006 is as good as the 2005, but different. The 2005 was rich, chewy with lots of glycerin. It had good structure, and had the bones to lay down for years in the cellar. The 2005 has softer tannins. Still remarkably delicious, just softer, ready now and easier to drink.

The wine is actually a blend. It is 78% Shiraz, 12% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. Each grape brings strengths to the blend. This is another case of the whole being better then the sum of its parts. Those of you that have been reading over the years know I am a sucker for a big, fruity blend. This is it.

The wine pours a deep purple typical of this style Aussie Shiraz. It is lip staining purple. The nose leads with fresh asphalt, earth, lots of blue fruit, coffee and some anise on the end. The flavors are explosive. Blueberry, mocha, tar are mouth filling and satisfying. You can taste the tannins, but they are velvety, more mature and not overwhelming.

I have found this wine on-line from $13.99 to $21. This wine, especially in this vintage, is a must try. Don't let the silly name or low price fool you. This is a seriously good wine!

I was invited to a Ridge Vineyards tasting this evening in Arlington, VA. I can't wait to taste their portfolio. I'll be sure to report on my favorites later in the week. Please be sure to leave your comments after tasting. Let me know if you agree with my tasting notes.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot

2008-04-07T16:01:00.020-04:00

Pinot Noir / $19
Wilamette Valley / Oregon

A good friend just returned from Portland, and picked up some Oregon Pinot Noir for us to try. We tasted three wines, all in the $20 range. Only one stood out, and for the $20 price tag, Willamette Valley Whole Cluster Pinot is a fabulous value.

Oregon is a hotbed for American Pinots. There is very little difficulty in finding 20 or more at your favorite wine store. The difficulty is finding one you like at the $20 price point.

Jim Bernau purchased the estate in 1983. A former plum orchard, this land was well suited to the cool climate varietals he wanted. He cleared the the old orchard and planted his first Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris taking care to hand water the vines until established.

For Jim, passion of the grape is shared with passion for the environment. Stewardship is a catchword in much of his winery literature. He has implemented a variety of programs to limit the winery's carbon footprint. Recycled corks, free bio fuel for his employees, credit for each returned empty bottle or cardboard shipper are just a few of the innovative programs in place.

Willamette is one of the few vineyards certified sustainable. They plant, maintain and harvest their grapes using methods safe to the local watersheds and wildlife. This is expensive stuff that certainly effects the bottom line. You would not find this type of environmental consciousness at a corporate owned vineyard. Kudos to Jim and company for their work. The best way to let wineries know that this environmental consciousness is appreciated is to buy their wine. (Allow me to now step off my soapbox...)

Lets talk about the wine a bit. It pours a beautiful clear ruby color. Swirling the wine releases loads of strawberry, raspberry and candied fruit aromas. You can tell from the nose this is going to be a hedonistic wine. The strawberry leads the charge when tasted, with raspberry, cherry and a bit of spice following closely. It has a nice mid-palate with an interesting cherry coke nuance. The finish, although not long, is pleasant. All too often Pinot in this range has bitterness or off tastes on the finish. The wine is generally well balanced, dangerously easy to drink, and will be a crowd-pleaser wherever served.

This wine is delicious. I was genuinely surprised at the $19 price tag. I spoke with a representative of the vineyard who promised to follow up to provide some local retailers for this wine. The beauty of a smaller winery is the care they take to make their wines. The difficulty of the smaller winery is finding a reliable distribution channel for their product. It is times like these I wish I lived in Oregon.

In the DC area, these wonderful wines can be found at Schneiders of Capitol Hill, Paul's, Pearson's and Rodman's all on Wisconsin Avenue in DC. Call to be sure they have the 2007 in stock, and let me know if you find the 2006....I'd love to taste them side by side.

These guys have a great website. You can read all about their wines, company philosophy and more importantly, order these wine on-line.

Ridge Chardonnay 2005

2008-04-03T16:18:00.021-04:00

Santa Cruz Mountains / $35

"You need to get to know your local wine merchant." Does this sound familiar? I have been preaching this theme for years now to anyone that would listen. When you finish reading this review....you will understand why.

Whenever I discuss Ridge Chardonnay with my wine cronies, the first thing they say is "Ridge makes a Chardonnay?" The answer is yes, they have been producing a quality Chardonnay for years. Why haven't we ever heard about it?

Probably because it is snapped up so fast it never gets much exposure on the shelf.

Last spring, I went to my local wine shop to pick up some wine that I ordered. Doug Rosen, the owner of Arrowine asked me if I ever had the Ridge Chardonnay. I told him I had not, and he told me I had to try some. I clearly explained that I was a Chardonnay snob. My likes in chardonnays were limited to Kistler, Pahlmeyer and Kongsgaard; all of these wines over $75 a bottle if you can find them. He was not daunted by my response, and said,"You have got to buy some Ridge."

He had the Ridge coming in the following day. I asked how much I should buy...and he recommended two cases. I clearly must have looked at him as if he were crazy. He said to buy it, and if I was not thrilled with the wine...he would take every bottle back. Let's now talk about the wine.

It pours a golden yellow and is intensely aromatic. Perfume of white flowers, honeysuckle, quince and pear get your attention immediately. As you swirl, the fruit comes forward with pineapple and melon....beautiful nose.

The wine is full and lush in the mouth. Great Pear and fig flavors on the front with toast and mineral rounding out a buttery finish. Brioche toast is a great description. This wine has an incredibly long finish. It is reminiscent of a mature French Montrachet. Incredible.

Unlike many American Chardonnay, this one will age. You can be comfortable laying some of this down to evolve, although I cannot imagine you will want to. It is too delicious now.

So, to finish my story.......I asked Doug what this wine was rated to try to get a handle on what it was like, and whether I should pull the trigger and buy the two cases. He said that as far as he knew it was not yet rated. But, he suspected it would be 90+ points, and would be impossible to find once a good rating came out. Sounded fair, so I bought the two cases.

Since I took Doug's advice, the Ridge has won all sorts of awards. It was rated as Wine Spectator's #2 wine of the year, and awarded 95 points. Needless to say, it was impossible to find once these high scores and accolades were published.

The best news of all? The wine was only $35. Comparably priced Chardonnay is $75 or more. Kongsgaard lists for almost $300 a bottle.....I did not pay much more then that for a whole case of the Ridge.

The moral of the story is "Get to know your local wine merchant". Although this wine for 2005 is no longer available, they may be able to save you a bit of the 2006 which should be released soon. Don't miss it!

Doug Rosen of Arrowine would love to be your local wine merchant. Tell him Gerry sent you!

Soave Classico - "Le Bine de Costiola"

2008-04-02T14:26:00.010-04:00

Garganega / Veneto
Italy / $20

It has been a long time since I have tasted an Italian Soave. This wine is generally made from Garganega grapes that are prevalent in the Veneto growing region of Italy. Soave was most often a inexpensive bottle of wine that was made by the village cooperative. All the towns growers would pool their annual harvest and make wine out of the blended juice.

Pio and Gaetano Tamellini always felt as though their vineyards were producing juice that was far superior to neighboring vineyards. In 1998 they risked it all and decided to keep their own juice to make their own wine. They hired veteran winemaker Paulo Caciorgna to oversee the wine making process. Their gamble paid off.

Debbie Larson dropped this wine off to me in my office to taste. I was surprised to see Soave on the label. Rather then make assumptions about what I suspected this wine to be...I decided to take it with me to Charleston, SC over Easter break and give it a try.

The wine is darker then I suspected it would be. It poured like a dessert wine, light honey colored and viscous. It clung to the sides of the glass when swirled. I could instantly smell apricots, lemon, apple pie spices and honey. The aroma was heady and pleasant. It really invited you to take your first sip.

The wine was fat and unctuous. It is full of glycerin and fruit flavor. The honey and mineral component are up front with lemon, pineapple and spice on the finish. This was not the Soave that my parents used to drink with Wednesday night spaghetti dinner. This wine had the mouth feel of a good (read expensive) chardonnay and wonderful flavour combination of apricot and honey....very nice.

What amazes me most is the Tamellini Brothers produced this delicious wine in a mediocre year. This is a producer that should be re-visited in better growing years to see what they can really do with good juice. I suspect the potential is there to knock our socks off.

This wine has enough backbone and structure to last a few years in the cellar. It seems to be fully mature, so don't cellar it thinking it will get better. For around $20, I see this as a bargain wine. Drink it with food. The weight of the wine warrants you have something with it. I am thinking a good loaf of Italian bread, some fresh Parma cheese, and maybe some roasted red peppers with good olive oil. Any white meats....lemon chicken, fresh ham, pork roast...Mmm, Mmm, Good.

I have not been able to find this widely available on the web. This is one that you will have to hunt down. Check with some of the reputable wine shops in your area, or link to one of my preferred wine shops in my "Favorite Links" on the right margin of the blog.

Tonight I am going to a tasting with Louis Fabrice Latour, CEO and owner of legendary producer Louis Latour. Calvert Woodley is sponsoring, and we will taste the 2005 Red Burgundies and the 2006 White Burgundies. This should be fabulous.

Montes Alpha Syrah

2008-03-28T15:30:00.003-04:00

Syrah Blend / 2005
Apalta Valley / Chile

It is so nice to have "Wine Friends" that are as excited about wine as I am. Every week I am amazed at the number of people that visit my site and take the time to comment or make suggestions of wines to try. What started as a hobby, has become something more. Where this journey will end I do not know. I have to say, I am having a heck of a lot of fun on the trip.

This week my friend and fellow wine buff Barbara Johnson dropped off a bottle of Montes Alpha Syrah and asked for my opinion. She and I have similar palates, so I was excited to give it a try. I am a fan of Chilean wines from way back. Initially it was because of their affordability more then their quality. Lately, it is more about quality. Their reasonable price is just icing on the cake.

Montes Alpha is producing their wines with a trick learned from the Australians. They add a bit of Cabernet and Viognier to the Syrah, and the wine becomes better then the sum of its parts. This wine certainly does. With the addition of 7% Cabernet and 3% Viognier the wine is given some added structure and great aromatics. This wine is a smooth gem.

It pours a dark ruby color and emits floral, tobacco and earthy aromas. There is also a hint of red fruit on the nose, but it is tough to isolate. The red fruit comes through when tasting. This full bodied syrah blend has berries and cassis galore, with leather and earth layers. This wine was aged for 12 months in French oak, and you can taste a bit of the oak on the finish.

The wine has a nice mouth feel. Rich and hearty, you can feel the structure that the Cabernet has delivered in the blend. A slight floral note on the long finish gives a hint to the small amount of Viognier added before bottling. The tannins do not overwhelm. This is an easy bottle to drink as the tannins are mature and a bit velvety. It has nice balance from start to finish.

Overall, this is a lovely bottle of wine. A different style and richness then the Australian Shiraz, this is a great wine for a hearty steak or stew. You won't be disappointed. Look for the 2005 vintage, it should be available now. Although this will lay down in a cellar for some time, it is a winner right now. I would not expect this to improve a great deal in the bottle.

The Montes Alpha wines and many of their Chilean competitors have been improving in quality dramatically. A few have been included in top 100 wine honors, and are certainly worth a try. Don't hesitate to give these wines a look. Don't limit yourself to just the Syrah. They have Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well.

For those who hurry...it can be found at Costco for about $18.00. Otherwise, it can be found at any good wine store for about $21.00. Thank-you Barbara for the great recommendation. Anyone that has some suggestions for future columns, or wants to submit a wine for review, please e-mail me!

Check out Montes Alpha On-Line http://monteswines.com

La Chaumiere Restaurant

2008-03-19T16:09:00.010-04:00

March 14th, 2008 / Bordeaux Dinner
Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme

Address: 2813 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007

Pronounced "La Show Me Air", this French staple in Georgetown has swept me off my feet. Attending a wine dinner I was expecting the night to be all about the wine...."AU CONTRAIRE", this night was about the food AND wine which were paired to perfection.

I have been in DC for 25 years now. How I could have missed LaChaumiere has me scratching my head. A long time foodie, I have checked most worthwhile restaurants off my list, and am always looking for the next best thing. It seems that the next best thing has been around since 1976....

It took a bordeaux dinner to get me there. This dinner featured wines by Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme and Chateau Clos Bourbon, two very fine "Petit Chateau's". I gathered a group of 10 "wine friends" to attend this event and together try and assess how good the 2005 vintage really is.

LaChaumiere is owned by Patrick Orange and Martin Lumet. Patrick is Chef and Martin is host extraordinaire. They both spent time with the group making us truly feel at home. The accommodation in the upstairs dining room was a bit tight, but comfortable. More then one of us commented on how at home the decor made us feel.

When describing Chefs, the term mechanic often comes into the conversation. A good chef is always a good mechanic. Knife skill, timing, coordination....all of these are important qualities. More important and intrinsic to success, especially in the hyper-competitive D.C. market, is artistry. This gift is rare, and only found in an elite corp of chefs, usually at the highest level. Patrick Orange convinced me at this dinner that he was truly an "artiste".

Hors D'Oeurves: We started with passed hors d'ourves while waiting for all to arrive. Paired with a nice rose' from Chateau Bourbon were smoked salmon mousse on toasts and puff pastry filled with warm goat cheese. The puff pastry are better described as savory cream puffs about the size of donut hole. The wonderfully seasoned goat cheese dripped from the puff pastry with each bite. I happily licked my fingers so not to miss a bit. Great start....Good pairing 8.5/10

Course One: Smoked Eel with Pearl Onions and Squid Ink Sauce. Wow...I hadn't had eel in 10 years, and now twice in the space of 2 weeks! The eel was delicately smoked, tender and flavorful. The eel was draped over tender pearl onions and sauced with a delicious Squid Ink sauce. The sauce was made with bordelaise and colored with squid ink. A beautiful, flavorful dish. The wine paired with this course was Chateau du Cros White Bordeaux. The acidity and grapefruit flavors really paired well with this dish. 8.5/10

Course Two:

Roasted Guinea Hen with Organic Mushrooms and "Natural Sauce". I was expecting something like a whole quail or capon when I saw the menu. How wrong I was. The dish was beautifully plated with a stack of overlapping stuffed breast slices on top of strained reduced natural sauce. The hen was stuffed with chopped giblets and duck and made for a beautiful presentation. The flavors were to die for. The tender fowl was delicious. The sauce was a reduction of bones, veal stock, vinegar and sugar....simmered, strained and poured on the plate to fully coat the base. This was paired with a Chateau Lepine and Clos Bourbon Premiere Bordeaux. Both of these wines were wonderful with the rich sauce and hen. they tasted much more expensive then they actually are. Look for these wines when you are out shopping. At about $10.00 they are fabulous. 10/10 Perfection

Main Course:

Venison Medallions in Peppercorn Sauce with Harticot Verts and Lingonberry Venison? It is not usually on my preferred list. After tasting the tender medallions topped with rich peppercorn sauce...the food lasted all of 2 minutes. Simply delicious. The venison was tender with only a little hint of game. The sweetness of the Lingonberry and the richness of the peppercorn was a great flavour combination. The beans were beautifully bundled in a little package...remember I spoke of artistry? The potato looked like a home made Tater Tot. (Sorry Chef...I had to stoop to this as a descriptor) The potato was mashed to a smooth consistency, carefully formed and fried lightly to impart a crisp crust. Wonderful paired with the peppercorn sauce. I mopped up as much as I could with the potato, and got a bit of a dirty look from my wife when I took a piece of bread to get every last bit of sauce off the plate. This paired with the Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme Medoc. The pairing could not be better...I will leave you to look for the Gemme review done in a previous post. 10/10 More perfection

Dessert Mirabelle Plum Tart This dessert was a perfect match with the Chateau du Cros Loupiac. Buttery rich, and not overly sweet this tart was filled with plum, marzipan and almonds to a crisp dry finish. Pastry like in texture, the crust was flaky with lots of butter. The Loupiac was sweet, but not cloying, and paired with the tart beautifully....artistry at work once again. 9/10

Does this review leave you thinking that maybe I was impressed? I was. This restaurant will not be checked OFF my list, but left on my short list of favorite eats. They have a very nice, and reasonably priced wine list. They will also allow you to bring a special bottle from your cellar with a $25 corkage. How nice to still find this courtesy. To return the favor, be sure to order one off their list for each one you bring...it is the right thing to do.

LaChaumiere Restaurant - Georgetown

Caronne Ste. Gemme Bordeaux

2008-03-15T15:56:00.011-04:00

Tasting Dinner / March 15th
Sponsored by Calvery Woodley Wines and Spirits
LaChaumiere Restaurant - Georgetown, D.C.

With the US dollar in free fall, trying to find a bargain in French wine is difficult. Especially for those with a penchant for Bordeaux. With the 2005 vintage being touted as one of the best of the century, many of us have been trying the wines from the lesser known "Petite Chateau's" to find an affordable favorite. With the wine press focusing so much attention on some of the smaller chateaus, Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme is consistently a favorite.

Last night, Francois Nony, a fourth generation proprietor of Caronne Ste. Gemme, came to DC to promote his wines. He spoke about the history of the Chateau, his family's love of the terrior, and the quality and staying power of his wines.

We tasted wines from the 1990, 2000, 2003 and 2005 vintage. My favorites were the 1990 and 2003. I will focus on these in the interest of space, but rest assured, all were delicious.

The 1990 surprised all of us with its resiliency. The 1990 when poured looked beautiful. A bit duller in color and showing a bit of browning at the meniscus, the wine still had lots of fruit. The wine also had layers of earth, mushroom and some smoke finishing with smooth tannins. The wine was a pleasure to drink. I am not sure how many more years this one has left, but at 18 years old...it is showing surprisingly well. This one came out of Francois Nony's personal cellar....Thank you Francois for the rare treat.

2003 was a year of drought in Bordeax. The vines were stressed, and the fruit highly extracted. The 2003 Caronne was a beautiful color, and the black fruit and briar assaulted your senses. It was somewhat fruit forward, with layers of fruit, herbs, and very low acidity. It was a bit astringent on the finish, but this characteristic should fade as it picks up a few years in the cellar.

It is hard to believe you can get bordeaux wines or this quality for under $20.00. This chateau has consistently shined in tastings throughout the years and yet surprisingly has kept their prices low. With the dollars ongoing fall, who knows how long this can continue.

I have to thank Ed Sands from Calvery Woodley in DC for the invitation to this lovely dinner and tasting. He consistently sponsors some of the better wine dinners in DC. More impressively, he usually does it with a all-inclusive cost below $100. Thank you Ed Sands, Michael Sands and William Holby for your wonderful dinners. Please keep up the good work!

I will give Calvert Woodley a plug here. They have the Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme on sale this week. It is a great time to pick up some 2003 and 2005 bordeaux at a killer price. The 2003 is on special at $17.99 and th 2005 at $21.29.

Calvert Woodley is located at 4339 Connecticut Avene, NW in Washington DC. They have a fabulous newsletter via e-mail that you can sign up for at their website. Go to my favorite links section, or click the following link to sign up.

Calvert Woodley Wines and Spirits

Marietta "Old Vine Red" Lot # 45

2008-03-14T15:38:00.003-04:00

Non-Vintage / Proprietary Blend
California / $11.00

I have been peppered with e-mail from wine lovers looking for a cheap, tasty everyday red under $15. I am not sure if all of them understand that quest for this type of wine is what we ALL look for everyday.

Marietta Cellars has been around a long time. They produce some world-class wines and have a gift for blending different varietals with wonderful results. The "Old Vine" is non-vintage. It may be a blend of juice and/or wine of different years to produce a consistent flavor profile expected from the public. Instead of attaching a vintage year to each bottle, Marietta assigns a lot number. This years lot number is #45. It is a mix of Zin, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Cab, Alicante and some Italian varietals.

It is ruby in color, a bit lighter then a good Zin. It is full of blackberry and Brier fruit on the nose. When tasting, it offers multiple layers of flavor. Brier fruits, spice and a bit of pepper on the finish balance the sweet mouth filling fruit. It is a tad on the sweet side, but not overly so.

It is a great everyday bottle of wine, and easy to quaff. It is so hard to find a wine in this price range that does not is some way disappoint. Pick some up for dinner, grilling, cheese....anything your heart desires. For $11ish a bottle....what do you have to lose?

I am attending a Bordeaux tasting at La Chaumiere in Georgetown, D.C. with some friends tonight. I will try to report on what we tasted sometime this weekend. Until then, Cheers!

"Black Salt" Restaurant

2008-03-13T17:53:00.010-04:00

Tasting Menu / March 1, 2008

My wife Nancy simply loves "Black Salt". I have had some good meals there, but since I am a steak and potatoes type, it was never at the top of my list. This past weekend we dined with two other neighborhood foodies and decided to try the Chef's Tasting menu. All of us were quite pleased. Although not cheap...the $85 per person was well worth the money. Actually, in discussing the experience with the group, we decided it was probably a better value then a la carte.

Starter Oyster topped with Domestic Caviar

The chef welcomed us to the table with a gratis starter. A beautiful oyster topped with a dollop of domestic caviar. The oyster was fat, sweet and flavorful. The flavor of the fresh brine liquor was bumped to the next level with the addition of black caviar roe. A wonderful way to start the dinner.

Course 1 Japanese Hamachi with House Kim Chee and Basil

The hamachi was served sashimi style with the kim chee and micro basil on top. A great pairing, the kim chee was deliciously tart and sweet which was a perfect partner for the fish. Perfection.

Course 2 Sea Scallops Tartare with Avocado, Crispy Onions and Vin Cotto

The scallops were chopped in small cubes with a dollop of avocado on top then sprinkled with crispy onions. The Vin Cotto blended perfectly with the briney scallop and the avocado gave a rich creamy texture to each bite. The onions provided the crisp texture and rich flavor. So much going on in this course. It was my favorite of the night.

Course 3 Wood Grilled Baby Octopus with Black-Eyed Peas, Smoked Bacon
& Saffron Cauliflower

This was a beautiful presentation. The baby octopus was grilled tender and really picked up the wood smoke flavor. The black eyed peas were cooked aldente along with the saffron cauliflower. A delicious combination of texture, color and flavor. This is one I would have never ordered a la carte, but was a true winner.

Intermezzo Lobster Bisque

One of two freebies sent out by the chef. The Bisque was intense. Two couples from the table lived in the Boston area and loved the flavors. I thought the bisque needed less salt and more cream. I cannot deny the flavor was fabulous. Remember, I am not a fish person so discount my critique of the intermezzo

Course 4 Foie Gras with Broiled Unagi (Eel) and Sweet Cherry - Soy Reduction

Boy, I love foie gras. Eel is not something I care for...but Unagi....fabulous. Unagi is richly textured like pate and creamy like foie gras. If I did not know in advance it was eel, I would have never been able to guess. I would have thought pate, or maybe a different preparation of foie gras. It was wonderful. The sweet cherry soy reduction was a perfect foil for the high fat in the dish. Not overly sweet, it complemented instead of overwhelmed. This was a perfect 10.

Course 5Slow Braised Kurobuta Pork Cheeks with Farro, Red Grapes and Pancetta- Red Wine Jus

This was a great idea, but did not knock my socks off. The meat was flavorful and rich, although a bit dry. The farro and pancetta jus was delicious...the red grapes were a flavorful and creative touch. Good, but if I had to order again, I would get the Big-Eye Tuna or Pacific Butterfish.

Dessert Indian Pudding - With Maple

I tend to either go for the Ice Cream/Sorbet or the heavy pudding style desserts. I recently saw a Food Network program that featured New England traditional desserts. They made Indian Pudding with corn meal and molasses which looked delicious. The
twist on dessert at Black Salt, is they used Maple Syrup to sweeten and impart flavour to the pudding, and then topped it with home made maple walnut ice cream. The pudding was dense, rich and flavorful. To be honest, I was stuffed at this point. The maple flavour really came through in this dish. The cornmeal was infused with vanilla, cream, butter....all the wonderful things a baker has at their fingertips when making a delicious dessert. The maple walnut ice cream was delicious. Although I left much of the pudding, there was not a drop of the ice cream remaining in the bowl.If you are still hungry after the first five course...consider the pudding. If you are not...go for the fresh ice cream.

Overall, the experience was wonderful. The waiter and staff were very attentive. The wine list is one of my favorites in DC, and the prices for wine are reasonable. I can't wait to go back. Don't hesitate to book this restaurant for your next special night.

Black Salt Reservations

Neyers "Pato Vineyard" Zinfandel 2005

2008-03-11T18:30:00.002-04:00

Zinfandel / $25 - $35
Contra Costa / California

Last week I did the Chef's Tasting at "Black Salt" in Washington, D.C. I was very impressed with the wine list there. It was clearly put together by someone that had a passion for wine. There were many blends, esoteric varietals and lesser known vineyards..all of good quality.

Neyers produces some wonderful wines. Most are highly rated, and all are reasonably priced for their quality. This vineyard has vines that are over 110 years old. Rich Pato oversees this plot and painstakingly tends to the vines. Most vines are not irrigated, so the low yeilding crop is rich with flavour. The grapes are hand picked, crushed and left in contact with the grape skins for 30 days before further fermentation.

The wine pours lighter then I expected. Only a medium red to ruby color, this wine smells like stewed fruit, red berries and a bit of spice and pepper. It tastes wonderful. Lots of fruit up front. Berries, red and black with a bit of tart cranberry too. It has a rich sweetness to the fruit. It is mouth filling and satisfying. I was thrilled.

Many zins can border on sweet and have a syrupy cloying finish. . Many are high in alcohol and will burn on the finish. This wine, although 15.5% alcohol, has a long balanced finish and avoids cloying sweetness. I loved it.

If you have a chance to try some of Neyer's wines you will be pleased you did. Although not cheap, I still say this wine is a good value. This wine is not stocked everywhere. Call ahead to your favorite wine store to see if they carry it.

If you want to buy it On-line, try Binny's Beverage Depot They carry this for $29.99 per bottle or $28.49 by the case. ENJOY!

Cousino Macul "Antiguas Reservas" 2006

2008-03-11T17:44:00.005-04:00

Chardonnay / $12 to $16
Maipo Valley / Chile

When I was asked to review this wine I flashed a big smile. I cut my teeth on Cousino Macul twenty years ago. It was Chilean and cheap. Although I did not taste the Chardonnay, the Cab and Merlot were a fantastic value.

Chile has become one of the best producers of wine in South America. Many of the large wine conglomerates have purchased land and developed vineyards there. There is a vast brain trust of winemakers that are sending lots of money and technology there to make wine. Many experts say it is "smart money". I tend to agree.

Chardonnay is not a grape that shines in Chile. I am not sure if it is the terrior or the technology...but it is tough to find a good chardonnay from the region. This wine is the needle in the haystack. It is surprisingly good, and for the money, it is a steal. All of you that write to complain about the price of a good chardonnay take note. For less then $15 you can drink a wine that will outperform wines $25 and more.

It is straw colored and pours cleanly. The nose is pear, citrus, apple, white flowers and a bit of toast. Although aged in oak, this is not an oaky chardonnay. The flavor of apple,pear and grapefruit are nicely balanced. The finish reveals a whiff of oak, but wonderfully integrated and balanced. This balance is rare in a wine in this price range.

Cousino Macul is no longer an up and comer. They are one of the leaders of the Chilean wine industry, and have proven their value. Their premium wines are classified as "Antiguas Reservas". It is well worth the few dollars more to buy this reserve wine. Don't skimp in this price range. The winners are few and far between. This wine is a winner and available everywhere. Go out and try a bottle. Let me know if you agree.

Torbrek Woodcutter's Red Shiraz 2006

2008-03-06T15:47:00.004-05:00

Shiraz (Syrah) / $16-$22
Barossa Valley / South Australia

I bought this wine last fall on the recommendation of Doug Rosen at ARROWINE in Arlington, VA. He bought a few pallets, and sold it at a blow out price. I bought a case and stocked it in the cellar to let it rest a bit.

There are positive and negative attributes to having a cellar. The positive part is you have a dedicated space to store your wine in a controlled environment. The negative is you can sometimes forget what you have in the racks at any given moment. I found this wine hidden away while making room for some wine that was being delivered today, and decided to take a bottle upstairs to try.

Parker gave this wine 92 points. In all candor, that is the reason I bought a case of this wine. At $15.99 a bottle on sale, and 92 points....it seemed like a good deal. I like Australian Shiraz, and this certainly hit a sweet price point.

The screw top is convenient on these bottles, but I still feel it cheapens the wine experience. I understand that these closures may ultimately be proven superior to cork. Emotionally though, I love to go through the the routine of opening with a corkscrew. I actually had the corkscrew out and ready to use until I realized I did not need it....

The wine is very purple. Think Welch's grape juice purple. The aroma was sweet, heavy with black cherry, plum and blue fruits. It did not disappoint. There were no surprises on the flavor side. Lots of Blueberry with cherry and blueberry undertones. It has a big mouth feel, the fruit is almost overwhelming (Not that there is anything wrong with that...Thanks, Jerry Seinfeld). It finished smooth without any bitterness or heavy tannins.

This is a very pleasant wine. I know that Parker gave it a 92, but remember this is a Australian Shiraz. If you do not appreciate the fruit forward style of the Australian winemakers, you will not care for this wine at all. If you do, as I do, you will appreciate this for what it is. A great Australian value.

You can still find this wine an any good wine shop. Torbrek has been producing good wines with price points that run from $16 to $225. For a real treat, try their "Run Rig" Shiraz. It is made with super premium grapes, and a truly fabulous experience. Just remember though....for the price of ONE bottle of "Run Rig" you can buy a case of "Woodcutters" Red....

I am attending a Bordeaux tasting with some friends tonight which I will report on this weekend. Until then, Cheers!

Henry's Drive - Dead Letter Office 2005

2008-03-03T14:02:00.002-05:00

Shiraz Blend / $16 - $25
Padthaway / Australia

Every once in a while, I am asked to taste a wine and post a review. Being politically correct, some of the reviews don't make it to print if the wine doesn't perform. Over the years, there are very few that I just could not stomach. I see merit in most wines, without regard to price. I see it as a matter of value.

My friend Brian Pawsat sent this wine over to me to review. I can tell you in advance, that ALL wine tastes better when free....this fact aside, here is what I found.

It seems that most Australian wines these days have a gimmick label. With competition fierce, and prices low, anything the producers can do to grab attention, they do. This bottle label was stamped with postmarks to complement the "Dead Letter Office" theme. Cute, attractive and certainly attention grabbing. It also has a screw top, which seems more and more common these days with Australian wines under $20.

For me, the screw top is actually an attractive feature. Although controversial, screw tops are perfect for everyday wines where you are only drinking a few glasses and resealing. It also alleviates having to worry about a bottle being "corked" or needing to carry a corkscrew on a picnic. I think you will see more and more screw top closures. I have good information that even the French Bordeaux producers are bottling some of their wine in screw tops to determine the viability for upper end, expensive Bordeaux wines. I say bring it on.....although there is something nice about the custom of uncorking as we know it.

This wine is 98% Shiraz (Syrah) with 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is deep purple, almost black....like a bowl of blackberry jam. The nose reveals Black fruit, blueberry, vanilla and pencil lead. The wine looks thick and jammy, and certainly is inviting, especially to those of us who appreciate a "fruit bomb" now and then.

The wine is certainly jammy. Lots of blackberry, blueberry, with a tinge of smokiness on the finish. The wine is thinner then I anticipated...not much glycerin or roundness. It is a big wine, but is well integrated. An easy wine to quaff, you have to be careful not to polish off the bottle with dinner.... It is 15% alcohol which will certainly disable you the following morning.

For the money, this is a great value. It can be found locally retail for less then $25.00. If you are willing to go on line, it is available at $16.00 per bottle. This is exactly as I describe, a fruit bomb. If this is your thing, you will love this wine. If you are a purist and want something more complex....move on to the next review. Thanks Brian, for bringing this one to my attention. As I mentioned earlier in the review.....when the wine is free....it always tastes better... Cheers!

Links: Henry's Drive Website
Order on-line: $15.95 per bottle, Shipping $24.00

Domaine Berthet-Rayne CDP Blanc 2005

2008-03-03T11:28:00.001-05:00

Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2005 / $19.99
Rhone Valley / France

Have you ever a tried white Chateauneuf du Pape? Or, as the French say Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc..... No?... Well, expand your horizons. You are missing out on a wonderful wine experience.

I must say, this is not a wine I would normally order. Especially so at a restaurant, offered at 3 times retail. My wife and I went out to dinner this Saturday at Washington's "Black Salt" with 2 other couples that are friends and neighbors (Review to follow later this week). We wanted to start with a white, and this Chateauneuf du Pape caught my eye. What the hell. We were having the tasting menu and spending a fortune, why not splurge. What a good decision it was to try this wine.

Although this is a blend of grapes, it is not the typical white melange that you find in many white meritage. Most tend to be a bit sweet, reflecting the Viogner and Marsanne in the blend. This wine is 40% Clairette, 40% Bourbulenc, 10% White Grenache and 10% Roussanne which yields a nicely balanced, dry white. Although there is certainly residual sweetness....it is not at all cloying. The acidity is a perfect foil to the sweetness.....beautifully balanced.

The wine is pale and straw colored. When poured it is a bit unctuous and really clings to the bowl of the glass. The nose is all honey and white flowers...very pretty and delicate. It almost tastes un-oaked....nice fruit, great balance and no bitterness from tannins. This one did not last long at our table. This wine does have great structure, and seems like it would develop in the bottle for a few years if you can keep yourself from drinking it. It will certainly be worth the effort to find it as an addition to your cellar.

Usually, when I find a wine I like, it is easy to research it on-line. This wine, although showing up on many restaurant wine lists in the DC area, did not give me any local retailers for this beautiful white. I was finally able to find it on-line at a retailer in Michigan.

This wine was featured at $60 on the wine list at "Black Salt". This is not cheap for a white wine. As a rule of thumb one can usually divide the wine list price by two to find a local retail price, and by three if you are willing to buy on-line. This one is offered on-line at WineBuys.com for $19.99 per bottle. I will tell you....it is worth every penny.

I could not find this wine reviewed anywhere which surprised me. It seems that White Chateauneuf du Pape is not nearly as respected as the famous red wine of the region. I hope this review changes the way you think about Rhone whites. I can tell you for a fact, I ordered a case on-line as soon as I got home after dinner....

Enjoy!

Links: WineBuys.com $19.99 per bottle and $31 per case shipping

Jade Mountain Vineyard "La Provencale" 2005

2008-03-01T17:54:00.000-05:00

Rhone Blend / $14 - 18.99
Napa and Surrounds / California

I went to Morton's Steakhouse last night with a group of like minded wine lovers. We usually get together beforehand and open a few bottles of wine to catch up on each others lives, and compare notes. I had a few very interesting wines that I am sure to review over the next few weeks.

Morton's is having a special nationwide that I feel is a good deal. Two meals...Fillet, Scallops or crab cake, side veggies and dessert....all for $99. Although the wines there are decent...they mark up the wines three times retail...so there are certainly no bargains. We tried to stick to the $60 range where we found this gem of a wine.

I was introduced to Jade Mountain by my friend Gus Kalaris and his wife Lynn. They own CONSTANTINE WINES, a large distributor in the Washington, DC area. Jade Mountain is known for producing French varietals and blends grown in various counties surrounding Napa in California. When I saw La Provencale on the wine list, I had to order it.

This is a blend of five varietals, the primary grape is Mouvedre. It also features Syrah, Granache, Carignane and Viognier. All of these are classic grapes blended to make Chateauneuf du Pape in the Rhone region of France. Jade Mountain (Now owned by multi-national conglomerate Diageo) was way ahead of the times producing these varieties in California, and it shows.

The wine poured a lighter color then I anticipated. It looked more like a Pinot Noir then a Syrah blend. The aroma was fabulous. Raspberries and red fruit, spice, clove and a bit of vanilla. Very nice start. The wine is very lush and fruit forward. Raspberry and plum are the main components. Tannins are smooth but balances. There is a bit of a burn on the end...but not unpleasant. Turns out this wine is over 14% alcohol.

Overall, it was a very nice choice. Was it worth $60? Not even close. This morning when researching I was pleasantly surprised to find it many places at under $20. On line, you can find it for $14. At that price...this is a great value. Those of you that enjoy blends, smooth drinking reds and great values, look no further.

Links: Jade Mountain l Morton's l Online wines

Beringer "Alluvium" White Meritage

2008-02-29T15:24:00.000-05:00

White Meritage / $11.99 to 15.99
Knights Valley California

I know I have been on a Red wine kick for the past few months. I have not been ignoring all of you white drinkers, Really! I have recently been berated for ignoring your needs by avoiding whites at all costs. Hopefully, this review will make up for my inaffection.This week, you should make an effort to find this delicious and inexpensive white.

Beringer is a very large producer in California. They produce a wide spectrum of wines, from $10 to over $100. In my experience, their wines have always been a good value. The Alluvium is a blend of grapes....a White Meritage (Rhymes with heritage). This blend consists of Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a bit of Viognier. All of these grapes are delicious on their own, but when blended by a craftsman, morph into something special.

The Alluvium pours beautifully....rich almost viscous. The honeysuckle aroma from the Viognier wafts from the glass followed by pear, and citrus. Swirling the glass, the wine clings to the bowl forshadowing the viscocity and lush mouth feel. Peach and stone fruit, pear, vanilla; all linger with a long finish. Fabulous for a $15.00 wine.

This will be a great summer wine. Light, delicious and easy to drink. This is a great wine for a lunch of fruit and brie and a loaf of fresh french bread. Most importantly, your friends and family will thing you spent $25 or more on this beauty. This wine got rave reviews in all of the wine publications. Most recently, WINE SPECTATOR made this their wine of the week.

Scores on this wine were 90 points from Robert Parker and 92 Points from Wine Advocate. If you want to buy this by the case, you can get it cheaper by mailorder. It is as low as $11.99 by the case from WINEX in California. You pay no sales tax, and you still save $25 per case.

Be sure to buy the 2006 vintage. Although this wine should last for a few years, it was produced to be consumed young. This wine should be widely available. I would recommend Schneiders in DC on Mass Avenue 202-543-9300 and in Virginia Total Wine and More www.totalwine.com Until next week, enjoy!

"EOS" Reserve 2004

2008-02-26T17:38:00.000-05:00

Petite Syrah / $17.99
California 2004

Once a month I get together with a bunch of neighborhood wine cronies to play poker. We really do play poker, but the enjoyment comes from the camaraderie of neighborhood friends and a mutual love of wine. Each of us brings a bottle we want to share, or brag about. It is a great way to expose oneself to others tastes, and every once in a while, find a gem.

I'll give credit for this weeks find to Scott Greenberg, aka: THE VINE GUY. He is the weekly wine writer for the D.C. Examiner. You don't read the Examiner? Shame on you! Some great information is published each week by Scott and his wife Cindy (The Vine GAL). I liked this recommendation from Scott because he truly loves the wine. Sometimes that may not be the case!

This wine is concentrated, filled with red and black fruit and has the complexity that many wines in this price range do not. It also offers immediate gratification. The 2004 was deep purple and viscous. Black fruit, smoke and very tame tannins make this easy to quaff. The finish reveals a few layers. Black current, Boysenberry and other black fruits give this wine a long, silky finish.

Buy this by the case for immediate consumption. Back up the truck....it is worth it! You should E-mail Scott@VINEGUY.com and ask to be placed on his weekly e-mail list. He will send you a PDF copy of the Examiner's weekly article and keep you abreast of the Washington DC wine scene.

website: http://www.vineguy.com/
e-mail list: Scott@VINEGUY.com

Ed Meades Estate 2006

2008-02-26T17:31:00.000-05:00

Zinfandel / $16.99
Mendocino Valley, California

Goodness, I forget how much I enjoy Zinfandel. I opened a bottle last night after my daughter's school play to eat with a bowl of pasta. I went down to the cellar to look for a reasonable (Think Cheap) bottle of wine that would hold up to the spicy red sauce. This Edmeads fit the bill to a tee.

The 2006 vintage is wonderful. Be sure to get 2006 instead of earlier vintages. It is vastly superior. Deep ruby color leads to the aroma of pepper and black/red fruit. This is a big, dense wine with great mouthfeel. It is full bodied filled with ripe black cherry and raspberry with balanced tannin. It is a super bottle of wine for the money, and a perfect foil to a rich tomato pasta.

This wine can be found locally at Calvert Woodley for $16.99 a bottle. Calvert Woodley is located on 4339 Connecticut Ave, NW in Washington, D.C. 202-966-4400. They have a great newsletter, and it is worthwhile contacting them to be added to the list.

website: calvertwoodley.com .

Bodegas Bleda Divus 2003

2008-02-26T17:17:00.000-05:00

Spain / $13.00

Sometimes you have to cheat a little bit to find a wine that hits the spot. Sometimes you have to cheat ALOT to find a good wine at an attractive price. I have to give all credit to this find to Scott Greenberg, aka: THE VINE GUY. He is the weekly wine writer for the D.C. Examiner. You don't read the Examiner? Shame on you! Some great information is published each week by Scott and his wife Cindy (The Vine GAL).

I liked this recommendation from Scott because he explained that this wine spends the first 21 days in contact with the grape skins. This process is similar to the process used by Italian wine makers that produce AMERONE, one of my favorite wines.

This wine is concentrated, filled with red and black fruit and has the complexity that many wines in this price range do not. For $20 a bottle, it is MUCH cheaper then an Amerone, but satisfying to the palate and the wallet. You should E-mail Scott@VINEGUY.com and ask to be placed on his weekly e-mail list. He will send you a PDF copy of the Examiner's weekly article and keep you abreast of the Washington DC wine scene.Tell him Gerry Sent you!

website: www.VineGuy.com
e-mail list: Scott@VINEGUY.com

Hope Estates "The Ripper"

2008-02-26T17:00:00.000-05:00

Shiraz / $14 - $17
Australia

Great response to last week's wine! Many of you have become believers and made the trip to PA to purchase these wines. Keep the e-mails coming.... This week, I am revisiting the wines that were left by friends and family during Super Bowl. My friend Paul Richards ( A real life astronaut!), brought this bottle of "The Ripper" for me to try. God knows, I love the names the Aussie's assign to these wines. When I read the label and found out the grapes were from a town called "Donneybrook", I had to give it a try.

These grapes are grown on the West Coast of Australia, then shipped clear across the country to the east coast for pressing and bottling. This wine pours out dark red, typical of an Australian shiraz. The nose is fabulous, blackberry and dark fruit, with a bit of spice/pepper. The flavor, although not overly layered or complex, is wonderful. Blueberry, nutmeg and some oak are well balanced and pleasant. The label lists this as 14.4% alcohol. I was concerned there would be a burn on the finish. There was no obvious hint of the high alcohol....just smooth tannins and lots of fruit.

Although the winery says this can be cellered for up to 5 years....I think you want to drink it over the next 2. The rich fruit in this wine, like so many other Aussie treats, is the key to enjoyment here. Why tempt fate....drink it with Steak, Lamb...or a good stinky cheese. Thanks to Paul for the wine....it was out of this world.... Until next week, enjoy!

Richard Hamilton "Gumpr's Block"

2008-02-26T16:55:00.000-05:00

Shiraz / $11.99

Whenever I review a wine in the $8-15 dollar price range I get at least 30 e-mails with comments and feedback. With the economy uncertain, it is certainly timely to find more reasonable wines to enjoy.

I have been on the lookout for some great bargains that maintain high quality and overall value. The "Holy Grail", right? For the past few years I have been drinking an Australian Shiraz that is not very well known. Pennsylvania currently has this wine as a Chairman's Selection. Usually this retails for about $18. Even at full retail, this is a good value. At $11.99, there is no reason not to pick up a case. Although ready to drink now, it has enough structure to hold a few years. Once you taste it, I think it will be all gone in short order.

The dark ruby color looks light for a 100% shiraz (Syrah). Blackberry and blueberry nose segues into charred oak and pepper. The oak can be attributed to the American oak barrels that this wine is aged in. It has a nice mouthfeel, dense, smooth and without harsh tannins. It does not have a long finish, but for $11.99, what can you expect?

You can go on-line to order this wine, and have it shipped to the closest Pennsylvania wine shop to you. For me, I order a bunch with friends, and we all drive up to Gettysburg to pick it up. Worth the trip.

Order online: at pawineandspirits.com.

Writers Block Zinfandel

2008-02-26T16:16:00.002-05:00

Steele Vineyards / $15.00
California

Although I am not a football fan, I see the SUPER BOWL as an opportunity to get together with friends and enjoy a cocktail or bottle of wine. My friends very rarely come empty handed to my house. I found 7 bottles of wine while cleaning up that night, and will enjoy trying out all of the gifts.

My friend Steve and his wife Amy brought a bottle of "Writers Block". What a great name for a wine, but there are SO many Australian wines with clever names. Lo and behold, it AIN'T Australian! It is a California wine....I had to try it.

Without knowing the label or cost of this wine, I was able to give this a somewhat objective tasting. It had a nice color, although not super dark like many highly extracted Zins. This is mainly because it is NOT straight Zin. It is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. In my mind...a wonderful blend.

Red Raspberry, Cherry and Chocolate on the nose. The body is light for a Zin and a tad sweet...but the Berry, Blackberry Jam Pepper and Baking Spices really provide a nice tasting experience. I guessed this to be a $20 wine. I would have been dissapointed if it were more...but worth the $20.

When I researched the wine and found it at $14.99 I knew I would be writing about it today. A nice bargain, a cool and hip bottle, and a great wine to surprise your friends. Thanks to the Stern's for bringing this nice wine to our attention.

Shiraz Greenock Creek

2008-02-26T14:39:00.000-05:00

Apricot Block / $39.99
Barossa Valley, South Australia

I always bring a good bottle of wine to any social gathering, especially around the holidays. Most of the time, it is a bottle of wine from my cellar, that has been aged at least a few years. I learned a long time ago that wines need some time to allow their flavors to consolidate, the tannins to soften. This time in the cellar changes the wind considerably. It softens the tannins, and for my palate, makes the wine more enjoyable to drink.

While we are drinking the wine, I am often told the wine is fabulous....where can they buy some now? The disappointment is immediate when I tell them the wine for that particular vintage is no longer available. Today's selection comes from Jon Genderson at Schneider's Wine in Washington DC. He is clearing his warehouse, and has many wonderful wines on sale.

This particular wine is a 1999 Shiraz from Barossa in South Australia. It has been in the warehouse for 6 years, and is fully mature. This wine was originally $50 when released, and the recent 2004 vintage was released at $80 per bottle. To be able to buy this 93 point wine at less then $40 is downright fantastic.

The wine is opaque purple and highly aromatic. Blackberries, cassis, blue fruit and pepper blend beautifully. Wonderful fruit on the front and finishes with a bit of pepper on the finish....Soft tannin...almost non-existent....easy to drink....This is why you lay wine down. The results are beautiful, and the opportunity to pick some up at this price is rare.

This still has great balance, good structure and should last for another 5-6 years in the cellar.....why wait?